tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1311732763671014742024-03-13T06:57:35.185-04:00A Seam A DayAs of December 2012, this blog is no longer being updated or maintained. Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.comBlogger119125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-78249785383037821262011-06-15T07:29:00.000-04:002011-06-15T07:29:26.280-04:00Book Review: Easy Guide to Sewing Tops & T-Shirts by Marcy TiltonI don't have a scanned copy of the cover of this book because I bought it as an e-book on the <a href="http://www.tauntonstore.com/easy-guide-to-sewing-tops-t-shirts-marcy-tilton-ebook-077750.html">Taunton website</a>. If you wait for a sale, you can purchase this e-book for half off.<br />
<br />
<b>Title:</b> Easy Guide to Sewing Tops & T-Shirts <br />
<b>Author:</b> Marcy Tilton<br />
<b>ISBN:</b> 1561582395<br />
<b>Publication Date: </b> 1998 <br />
<b>Pages:</b> 128<br />
<br />
Overall impression, I like this book and would recommend it to others. I consider this book a must have if you want to take your sewing to the next level. If you want quick and easy, this may not be required reading. Many of her suggestions for getting the most out of your fabric or pattern design will add to your construction time. I learned quite a bit and most of the book is very detailed. There were a few instances where I found Marcy's description of a technique a bit inadequate (for my understanding anyway, you may think she was very clear). There are more photos than drawings but I wish there was an illustration for each step when she is explaining a technique. Usually there are only 2 or 3 photos for a 7-step process and sometimes I found myself scratching my head wondering how she got from picture 2 to picture 3. She does a great job giving you ideas on how to venture away from the basic pattern construction, such as manipulating a fabric to showcase it's best properties. I particularly enjoyed the section on changing on-grain patterns to a bias grain. She goes into great detail about which fabrics are best for bias work and how the pattern will need to be modified. For those of you thinking "Why bother?", read the book. Her description helps you realize that you don't need to purchase a new pattern for each design detail you like. Have a handful of patterns you've used in the past quite successfully. Now put a spin on the design, add an interesting neck binding, cut the fabric on the bias, embellish the fabric, and now your tried-and-true pattern looks like a completely different top. <br />
<br />
The construction chapters are broken down by woven vs. knit top construction, which is very helpful. She starts the discussion with a list of steps and then goes into great detail on the following pages. She gives recommendations for fabrics for those just starting out. For instance, silks are lovely to wear but not a beginner fabric. Rayons, although nice to touch, are more difficult to manipulate on the bias so save those for when you are more experienced. <br />
<br />
Marcy talks a lot about "staystitch-plus" (or easestitch-plus) as a method of easing a longer section of fabric to match a shorter section of fabric as you sew. I had never heard of this term before so I had to read the description of this several times. (I found a decent description of it <a href="http://www.digitalchangeling.com/sewing/howTo/hems.html">here in regards to hems</a>--scroll one-third of the way down the page.) I can see how this would be a great way to set-in sleeves and such. I find the technique confusing regarding topstitching (and Marcy recommends using it in topstitching quite a bit). Wouldn't that give you bumpy topstitching? With natural fibers, you could probably steam out the bumps and give it a nice look but I still don't understand why you would want to ease a hem's topstitching. Ease the hem's raw edge before pressing the hem and topstitching, that I get but easing the topstitching?? Maybe that is what Marcy meant but I've re-read that section several times (and she mentions it elsewhere and I've re-read those as well) and it just doesn't sound right to me. If you follow the link I gave above (<a href="http://www.digitalchangeling.com/sewing/howTo/hems.html">link here</a>), you'll see this author specifically says not to staystitch-plus a hem's topstitching, as in a turn-and-stitch hem. Anyway, I haven't tried to use this technique on a hem yet so take my opinion with a grain of salt.<br />
<br />
One technique I do disagree with (and have ample experience with) is Marcy's recommendation to not use double-needle stitching on hems for double knits. I have done this successfully with every double knit I've used (mostly poly blends or rayon) and I've never had any stretching or rippling that she warns will happen. (Perhaps a silk double knit would ripple with the double-needle topstitching.) I have, however, had skipped stitches and thanks to her recommendations for needles when sewing knits, I now know why. She does a fantastic job explaining how to add a strip of interfacing to a hem. I thought you fused the interfacing to the hem allowance, pressed up the hem and then stitched. She recommends stitching the interfacing to the hem first (interfacing is fusible side up, so nonsticky side is stitched to wrong side of fabric), press up the hem (which fuses the interfacing to secure the hem), flip to the right side of the fabric and topstitch. With the hem already fused in place, no slippage while you sew. So simple but very handy. <br />
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Marcy's section on use of the bias grain is fantastic as well. She even shows you how to use the bias (with center seam) on a sleeve to make an interesting effect with a striped fabric. It is stunning and I will have to try that some time soon. My only quibble with this section of the book is the recommendation to stretch the fabric as you sew a bias seam. She says you stretch the fabric as much as possible while you stitch and then steam it flat. I've not had luck with this in the past but perhaps I was being too gentle with my fabric. I took a couture sewing class with Susan Khalje last summer and she showed us a great way to sew bias seams stitched in short segments (described very clearly in each of her books). This method doesn't sound like it would work but one of the ladies in the class was sewing silk with bias seams and it looked great. I've never seen a bias seam look so good before. It hung beautifully, not a ripple in sight. I will have to compare these 2 techniques and see which I like better.<br />
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The best section of this book is the "pattern proofing" section. She spends an entire chapter talking about little tweaks to make to your pattern before you cut your fabric. Adding a little extra width and length at the bust area for large busts. Curving the shoulder and sleeve hems to hang nicely. Those are just a few but they make sense because fabric drapes and your body isn't flat like pattern paper. These little tweaks help take a flat pattern to a wearable garment that works with the body's contours instead of against it. I probably spent the most time reading this one chapter alone.<br />
<br />
This book was a great read, and even a fast read because it was so enjoyable to read. Even though I disagree with a few of the recommendations, I found the majority of her recommendations to be very helpful. The nice thing about sewing is the fact that there is usually more than one way to accomplish a task. You find what works best for you and use that, even if other experts say that technique won't give you the best results.Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-65428651532827649812011-06-12T09:01:00.000-04:002011-06-12T09:01:00.144-04:00We deserve betterWe meaning you and I and every other person that has amassed a large collection of books and DVDs, spent hours on the internet reading tutorials, and spent hundreds of dollars for just a single class all in the name of improving our sewing skills. We deserve better. Our skills and years of experience are worth more than just minimum wage. I'm referring of course to the practice of charging very little for sewing lessons or those that are paid peanuts to teach sewing classes at retail stores. We deserve better.<br />
<br />
I am still unemployed and it makes me a little crazy and a little desperate. To maintain my sanity, I decided to start teaching some sewing classes. I love sewing and figured this would be a great way to earn a little extra money and keep me out of trouble while I look for a decent job. Instead, I've put myself in a very uncomfortable situation and I've got a massive headache. I applied for an independent contractor position with JoAnn Fabrics. Independent contractors aren't paid by the store. The store collects the fees for the sewing classes, maintains a classroom and equipment, and coordinates the registrations for you. You make a sample and teach the class. JoAnn supplies the pattern but you supply the fabric and notions. (You do get to keep the sample, you can make it in your size and you can use whatever fabric you like.) JoAnn's gets 40% of the class fee and you get 60%. I admit 40% is rather high for the store but I decided it was still worth my time if at least 5 people signed up for the class. Besides, JoAnn is supplying the machines, irons, ironing board, etc. (per the Education Coordinator). Each month the store hosts an open house to introduce the instructors to the customers. The instructors don't get paid for this time but they did give me two "20% off your entire purchase coupons." Hmm, coupons only have value if you buy something to use the coupon on. <br />
<br />
I showed up for the first open house yesterday and when I walked through the door, I saw the "50% off select classes" sign. I asked the Education Coordinator, "does that include my classes?" Well of course it does and now I only get 60% of the 50% the customer paid for the class. So let's do some math:<br />
<br />
<b>$55/class, 4 hours total class time = $13.75/hour</b><br />
Customer paid for the class at an Open House so hourly rate is now <b>$6.88</b>. <br />
<br />
<b>Per hour: JoAnn's share is $2.75 and mine is $4.13</b><br />
<br />
According to the other instructors, usually only 2-3 people sign up for a class.<br />
<b>My hourly rate for 2-3 people is $8.26-$12.39</b><br />
<br />
<b>I must pay the self-employment tax</b> quarterly, which is reduced for 2011 only: 10.4% Social Security and 2.9% Medicare. I must pay the federal taxes annually--depends on your total annual income so I'll leave this out of the equation.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Hourly rate for 2-3 people (after taxes): $7.16 - $10.74/hour</b><br />
<br />
<br />
Factor in costs of fabric, notions, and gas to/from store.<br />
This can vary by project but I'll use my cheapest sample as a guide.<br />
<br />
<b>Extra costs:</b> <br />
2 yards of knit fabric from stash: $4.00/yard x 2 yards plus sales tax = $8.74<br />
1 yard of 3.25-inch lace trim I had to purchase to make the shirt the way JoAnn's wanted it: $3.99/yard x 10% American Sewing Guild discount plus sales tax = $3.92<br />
Small spool of thread from stash: $1.33 plus tax = $1.45<br />
Gas to travel to store for 2 class sessions and the unpaid Open House = 3.5 miles one-way x 3 round trips x $4.00/gallon with 22 mpg = $3.82<br />
<b>Total extra costs: $17.93</b><br />
<b>Hourly rate after taxes and extra costs = $2.68 - $6.26/hour</b><br />
(FYI...U.S. minimum wage is currently $7.25/hour.)<br />
<br />
I forgot the best part. JoAnn's has sewing machines but requests that customers use their own. They supply ONE iron and a crappy desktop half-size ironing board. Classes are only conducted during normal store hours so it really doesn't cost the store anything but the credit card charges for accepting customer payments. For all this, they get 40%. I bust my hump to meet all their demands, including not getting paid for any JoAnn employees that wish to take my class, and I get get a whopping $2.68-6.26/hour! Some may call me a snob but I've spent years reading books, watching DVDs, taking classes, learning wherever and whenever I can. My time is worth more than $6.26 per hour. I may not be certified or hold a fashion design degree, but my skill set is hardly minimum and therefore worth more than minimum pay.<br />
<br />
Now some of you are probably saying, "It serves her right. She should have asked questions." I did ask questions. I asked lots of questions. I was told half-truths. I feel that the Education Coordinator deceived me by leaving out crucial details, such as "your classes are offered half off once a month, which means you get only half the pay we promised you," or "we don't really supply machines and your ironing board is barely bigger than a postage stamp." <br />
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Needless to say, I'm headed to JoAnn's today to tell them to take a hike. This lousy deal isn't store policy either; it's a corporate policy. I'm so disgusted that I am seriously considering never shopping at JoAnn's again. I don't buy fabric there anyway. I just shop the pattern and notion sales. I'd rather give that money to someone else. Someone who isn't trying to screw the little guy. <br />
<br />
So in conclusion, next time someone says they'll pay you to teach a sewing class, consider your skills, experience, and added costs before you agree to it. Chances are they are receiving a much better deal than you are. Your skills are worth something and if you don't insist on proper compensation, the person receiving your services won't place any real value on your services. You are worth more.<br />
<br />
<i><span style="font-size: large;">--Julie</span></i>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-46411370078630848822011-06-04T01:26:00.000-04:002011-06-04T01:26:47.572-04:00I have them all!!I now own all of the Claire Shaeffer Custom Couture patterns for Vogue...I think. I have searched underneath every rock I could find and I believe my collection is now complete. Of course, this is more than a collection. I intend to make each one of these patterns (even if I think the garment is ugly) so I can practice couture sewing techniques. <br />
<br />
The final patterns to complete the collection are:<br />
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<b>Vogue 7718</b><br />
This pattern is rated for average difficulty and it was printed in 2003. Not exactly a top I would wear but maybe a different fabric could make it more modern-looking.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5795757516/" title="V7718a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7718a" height="500" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2732/5795757516_8383328bf2.jpg" width="347" /></a><br />
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<b>Vogue 8732</b><br />
This is the latest edition to the collection; printed in 2011 and is rated average for difficulty. What girl couldn't use a jacket like this?<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5795197607/" title="V8732a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8732a" height="500" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2776/5795197607_1d19c3393b.jpg" width="341" /></a><br />
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<b>Vogue 7658</b><br />
This is your basic mock wrap dress but the design is in the details. This pattern is rated average for difficulty and was printed in 2002.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5795197889/" title="V7658a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7658a" height="500" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3393/5795197889_f747298b34.jpg" width="347" /></a><br />
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<b>Vogue 7634</b><br />
Printed in 2002, this is the purple velvet coat that many have drooled over. Heck, I might even make it in purple! This pattern was printed in 2002 and is rated average for difficulty.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5795197945/" title="V7634a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7634a" height="500" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3080/5795197945_41dfa64c5e.jpg" width="350" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
The most difficult patterns to find (in my size anyway) were #7634, #7658, and #7718. Every other pattern is readily available on eBay or for sale in a sewing forum somewhere. I stumbled upon these 3 patterns in a Yahoo group for selling sewing-related items. I ran a quick search for Claire Shaeffer items and found a very old post advertising these 3 patterns for $5.00 each. (Yes, I know. I basically stole them.) I contacted the seller and she still had these patterns more than a year later. In less than a week, my search was finally over.<br />
<br />
So which pattern from the entire collection is my favorite?<br />
<br />
It has to be #8333. That was my first purchase and what prompted me to buy the whole collection. I love a smartly tailored jacket and the pocket detail is so great.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677740942/" title="V8333a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8333a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5266/5677740942_6e7cb7d78e.jpg" width="348" /></a><br />
<br />
My least favorite has to be the skirt. I hate the color but once I put that aside, my eyes are immediately drawn to the gathers at the waistband. Not sleek and modern at all but maybe the gathers will hide my belly. (Or maybe I should just stop eating so much Mint Oreo ice cream. YUM!)<br />
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<b>Vogue 7803</b><br />
This pattern is rated average for difficulty and was printed in 2003. Oh, yeah. And the color is awful.<b> </b> <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5795208691/" title="V7803a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7803a" height="500" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2590/5795208691_0e749a3059.jpg" width="351" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
On a side note, some people have asked why I haven't been posting. Honestly, I'm flattered that anyone is reading this often enough to notice that I'm slacking at blogging. I've had many balls in the air. Some are things I want to do and some are things I have to do. Like find a job, for instance--don't want to do it. This economy is just awful. I was blind to how bad it was when I was employed. DH and I had been paying down debt and building up savings for quite some time so I was sheltered from the impact of a bad economy. Now that I don't have a job, my bank account balances have been on my mind daily. I've decided to take matters into my own hands. I've applied for at least 50 jobs...seriously. I've had 3 interviews. I'm fed up with trying to make others see my worth, my value as a potential employee. What's worse is I haven't enjoyed my work for the last 4-5 years anyway. I've contemplated starting my own sewing business for several years now. I'm finally putting this plan into action. It will be in baby steps but I feel a sense of relief knowing that one day in the forseeable future, I don't have to answer to anyone but myself AND I will love my job. An added bonus, my husband is proud of me for following my dreams. He's a keeper!<br />
<br />
So that's what I've been up to lately. I spent yesterday refolding and organizing my entire fabric stash. I know, it's a little obsessive-compulsive but it gets the creative juices flowing. I have 2 very large piles of fabric prepped for cutting and projects picked out for all of them (mostly totes, clutches, knit tops, and pajamas). Next up is pattern alterations and cutting out the fabric. I'm in my happy place right now. <br />
<br />
May your happy place be in your sewing room (without interruption from pets and husbands)!<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">--Julie</span></i></span>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-88788548470176269742011-05-02T01:44:00.000-04:002011-05-02T01:44:42.158-04:00Claire Shaeffer's Pattern CollectionI've been collecting these for the past 2 years. There are still a few out-of-print patterns I don't have but I wanted to share the ones I do have with you. Each pattern highlights a few couture techniques. With the exception of a few of these, I can see myself wearing them if made up in the right fabric. My plan is to one day have made up all of these patterns. Contrary to popular belief that "couture" equals "difficult", a few of these patterns are rated "easy", some "advanced" but most are "average." Of course, that doesn't rate the amount of time it will take to complete a garment.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#7467 OOP</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">I call this one the 80's jacket. Printed in 2001, this is the only pattern in my collection that uses both sew-in hair canvas and batiste for interfacing. This jacket uses pad stitching, welt and patch pockets, sleeve interfacing and shaping, and a 2-piece vented sleeve. </span><b> </b></span> <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677742674/" title="V7467a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7467a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5104/5677742674_37fc5e78d6.jpg" width="324" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#7468</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> OOP (available online at Vogue Patterns)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2001, this pants pattern is a double-pleated, straight leg pant with a mock fly zipper, side front pockets, and a button-front waistband.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677183173/" title="V7468a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7468a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5144/5677183173_32ca6ddcf0.jpg" width="343" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#7539 OOP</b></span><br />
<br />
Printed in 2002, this very loose-fit jacket includes great instructions for using stay tape (couture "stay tape", where to put it and how it affects the way the garment hangs). I also found a great tip for pressing perfect seams in wool fabrics. I would love to have this jacket in the pink plaid fabric that Claire Shaeffer used.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677742308/" title="V7539a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7539a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5308/5677742308_7175354bec.jpg" width="358" /></a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#7540 OOP</b></span><br />
<br />
Printed in 2002, a straight dress with welt pockets that is fully underlined. This pattern includes instructions for making dress shields, a belt and hand buttonholes, interfaced hem, handpicked zipper and covered snaps. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677183093/" title="V7540a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7540a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5107/5677183093_e8c9ef8ca1.jpg" width="349" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#7881 (currently available)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2004, this is great pant has no darts (shape the fabric with steam), a mock-fly, and faced contour yoke.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677613634/" title="V7881a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7881a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5265/5677613634_a332a180df.jpg" width="340" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#7908 OOP (available online at Vogue Patterns)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2004, this is a beautiful fitted jacket with an interesting pocket design. The instructions also include details about balanced darts and lapped seams. This jacket has a 2-piece sleeve and includes pad stitching, reinforcement for corners and curved edges, more advanced pressing techniques and hand buttonholes. I think the unusual pocket design is the reason for the advanced difficulty rating.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677741206/" title="V7908a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7908a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5184/5677741206_0d58cfe937.jpg" width="358" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#7966 OOP</b></span><br />
Printed in 2004, this dress has a tucked princess design with split neck and handpicked zipper. The dress has dress shields and lingerie guards and is rated advanced difficulty.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677742200/" title="V7966a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7966a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5187/5677742200_90b85224bd.jpg" width="343" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8087</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> OOP (available online at Vogue Patterns)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2005, this jacket is an advanced pattern. This jacket has pad stitching, welt pockets with flaps, and a 3-piece sleeve.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677183469/" title="V8087a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8087a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5305/5677183469_3e239db2e1.jpg" width="349" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8156 OOP</b></span><br />
Printed in 2005, these straight-legged pants have a contour yoke, mock fly zipper, cuffed hem and back welt pocket with flap.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677182535/" title="V8156a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8156a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5306/5677182535_df7e752754.jpg" width="346" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8259 OOP</b></span><br />
Printed in 2006, this pattern is rated difficult and often used for French jackets, aka the "Chanel jacket." Claire Shaeffer gives instructions for a 3-piece sleeve, quilting fabrics together, and a stand collar.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677760166/" title="V8259a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8259a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5304/5677760166_c3361d47a2.jpg" width="342" /></a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8333 (currently available)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2006, this is the pattern that first caught my attention in the Claire Shaeffer collection. I was more intrigued by the jacket and unusual pockets (hidden in the pleats) than learning couture techniques. This pattern is rated advanced difficulty and includes interfaced hem, 2-piece sleeve, pad stitching, sleeve head, and hand buttonholes.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677740942/" title="V8333a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8333a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5266/5677740942_6e7cb7d78e.jpg" width="348" /></a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8369</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> OOP (available online at Vogue Patterns)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2007, you finally learn how to add chain weight in the hemline (this is for you Chanel ladies out there). You also learn how to make Chinese ball buttons, insert a sleeve head, and interface a hem; jacket has a 2-piece sleeve.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677182369/" title="V8369a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8369a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5305/5677182369_5e9504c904.jpg" width="343" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8400</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> OOP (available online at Vogue Patterns)</b></span><br />
I call this the clown jacket. Printed in 2007, the fabric is very off-putting in this jacket and the instructions only explain one new technique, a bound buttonhole.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677742126/" title="V8400a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8400a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5144/5677742126_ef7e792055.jpg" width="349" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8428</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> OOP (available online at Vogue Patterns)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2007, this jacket pattern includes instructions for pad stitching, bias tubing, hand buttonholes, interfaced hem, 2-piece sleeve and sleeve heads.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677741116/" title="V8428a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8428a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5262/5677741116_d5239aef41.jpg" width="348" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8449 (currently available)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2007, this is the first pattern that has better pictures showing you how to do the hand stitches. You also learn several bias techniques (like lap basting), bound zipper placket, and tons of practice with staying edges. This dress is not lined.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677183559/" title="V8449a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8449a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5265/5677183559_95692b5fdf.jpg" width="348" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8481 OOP</b></span><br />
Printed in 2008, this jacket pattern is rated advanced difficulty. It includes pad stitching, quilted lining, 3-piece sleeve, hand buttonhole, and sleeve heads. Skimming the instructions, I don't see why this is an advanced pattern or why the lining is quilted. I've also noticed that all of the patterns with sleeve head instructions don't indicate what will be used for the sleeve head (in the instructions or on the back of the envelope), except for one. Sleeve heads were made of lambswool in haute couture but you can improvise with fleece or wool/cotton batting. I've seen them sold at tailoring shops with 2 pieces of muslin and polyester batting sandwiched in between.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677182991/" title="V8481a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8481a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5024/5677182991_3a5987c80b.jpg" width="344" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8498 (currently available)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2008, this pants pattern uses a French fly, pleat stays, inseam pocket, and "straight fold over" (or what I've always known as "cut-on") waistband that is interfaced with either double grosgrain ribbon, double hair canvas or single Petersham ribbon. There are also instructions for hanging loops and weighted hems.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677182617/" title="V8498a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8498a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5023/5677182617_f4dc49c670.jpg" width="347" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8519</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> (currently available)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2008, the sharp look of this jacket caught my eye. Looking more closely at the instructions reveals some new techniques, such as reverse corners and curves. The buttonhole is placed in the center front seam. This is the first pattern to indicate on the envelope that you need lambswool for the sleeve head. This pattern is rated advanced difficulty.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677182125/" title="V8519a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8519a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5229/5677182125_c1433bdcaa.jpg" width="349" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8578 OOP (available online at Vogue Patterns)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2009, this is the only pattern designed for knits. China silk is the interfacing for this garment. The "bias waist stay" is actually an elastic waistband enclosed. There are also waist pleats and inside corners to navigate.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5678946006/" title="V8578a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8578a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5021/5678946006_a13e441738.jpg" width="343" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8621</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> (currently available)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2009, this jacket pattern has an interesting design detail. The sleeve is raglan in back and set-in on the front. I can't even wrap my head around this idea. The jacket has a keyhole neckline, bound buttonholes, welt pockets, and a waist seam (no special treatment for this detail). <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677741366/" title="V8621a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8621a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5269/5677741366_b7029be04a.jpg" width="353" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8652</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> (currently available)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2010, this pant has a bound buttonhole, French fly, cut-on or straight fold-over waistband with grosgrain or Petersham ribbon for interfacing and a partial lining (only to knees). The instructions have great drawings for all the hand stitches (why doesn't each pattern in this line has such great drawings?). These pants are rated easy for difficulty.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677741640/" title="V8652a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8652a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5142/5677741640_65a16838d8.jpg" width="345" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8692</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> (currently available)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2010, this jacket has interesting bust darts and the usual welt pockets, bound buttonholes, and 2-piece sleeve. No collar stand but the collar and lapel supposedly have some "interesting edgestitching." This pattern is rated advanced difficulty.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677182835/" title="V8692a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8692a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5068/5677182835_29cab3febb.jpg" width="367" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#8732</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> (currently available)</b></span><br />
Printed in 2011, this is the newest addition to the collection. This unlined jacket pattern has welt pockets with flaps, padstitching, hand buttonholes, 1-piece sleeve, and interfaced hem.<br />
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pic 8732<br />
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There at least 3 other out-of-print Vogue Claire Shaeffer Custom Couture patterns missing from my stash but otherwise complete.Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-62581417534784901152011-05-01T23:42:00.001-04:002011-05-01T23:45:21.310-04:0010 Wardrobe EssentialsS.W.A.P. (sewing with a plan), 5-piece wardrobe, 10 essentials...all ways of creating pieces to build a versatile wardrobe so you don't have to stand in your closet and cry out "I have nothing to wear!"<br />
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I have read one of Tim Gunn's earlier books and decided it wasn't a keeper for my ever-expanding library of sewing and fashion. I am intrigued, however, by the idea of sewing with a goal in mind instead of randomly selecting pieces like I usually do. There aren't any real surprises on this 10 essentials list by Tim Gunn but I enjoy him on Project Runway so let's give him credit for a great list.<br />
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You can view the whole list on InStyle <a href="http://www.instyle.com/instyle/package/general/photos/0,,20229673_20229674_20517123,00.html">here</a>.<br />
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<ol><li><b>Little Black Dress</b>: I don't have one. I know, it's shameful. Every time DH says we have an event to go to, I fail to plan ahead and then find myself at said event wishing I had a basic black dress to wear for these occasions.</li>
<li> <b>Trench Coat</b>: I actually have a beautiful trench I bought several years ago but it no longer fits. Darn coat must have shrunk.... Oh well, time for another.</li>
<li><b>Classic Dress Pants</b>: I have 3 pairs I purchased from Eddie Bauer some time ago. I'm slowly getting around to hemming them. They are nice and fit pretty well but I want a perfectly fitting pair of pants so I'll add these to the list.</li>
<li><b>Versatile Skirt</b>: What instantly comes to mind is a basic skirt, solid color or very subtle pattern. After looking at Tim Gunn's selection, I see that an interesting pattern would be a better choice. A statement skirt.</li>
<li><b>Fitted Blazer</b>: As I am currently going on job interviews, I needed a jacket that fit superbly and I needed it now. I was shocked to find some RTW jackets that fit beautifully. Jones New York, I should've known. I've always admired the look of their jackets. I do have a smart-looking Vogue Claire Shaeffer Custom Couture pattern I've been dying to make so now's the time.</li>
<li><b>Classic White Shirt</b>: I LOVE white shirts! Tees, button-downs, doesn't matter; white looks great next to my skin.</li>
<li><b>Day Dress</b>: Tim says this is not a cocktail dress alternative; more like a shift, wrap or shirt dress. I have several fantastic shirt dress patterns and a few knit wraps that I'd love to make.</li>
<li><b>Cashmere Sweater</b>: Can't sew this one...or can I? I see great sweater knits online all the time. I did have a cashmere sweater once and I wore it at least once a week. Cashmere has the bonus of being as soft as angora without covering you with hair.</li>
<li><b>Perfect-Fit Jeans</b>: Amen to that! This may be my holy grail if I could ever find or make a pair. </li>
<li><b>Alternative to the Sweatsuit</b>: "Casual with sophistication." I have to think about this for a bit. I don't wear sweatsuits but I have some black knit pants and baggy T-shirts that are so comfortable. What would be as comfortable and significantly more flattering?</li>
</ol>Now for the patterns....<br />
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<b>Butterick 5321</b>: With short sleeves, can be worn in warm weather and with a jacket for cooler temps or cold rooms. I wonder if the inverted pleat at the waist would be a good belly and hip minimizer. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5417566672/" title="B5321a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="B5321a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/5417566672_532cd37be7.jpg" width="352" /></a><br />
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<b>McCall's 5525: </b>The classic trench, perhaps with the Peter Pan collar<b><br />
</b><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5417890726/" title="M5525a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="M5525a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5417890726_8996699ba5.jpg" width="387" /></a><br />
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<b>Vogue 7881:</b> classic dress pants<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5677613634/" title="V7881a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V7881a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5265/5677613634_a332a180df.jpg" width="340" /></a><br />
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<b>Simplicity 2367</b>: Skirt in an interesting fabric or a solid with some contrasting topstitching<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5669955124/" title="S2367a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="S2367a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5302/5669955124_ff5b6a40ac.jpg" width="349" /></a><br />
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<b>Burda 7618</b>: Not <i><b>THE</b></i> essential blazer but in the right fabric, this jacket could be quite versatile.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5669228039/" title="Burda7618a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Burda7618a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5262/5669228039_2b67561625.jpg" width="347" /></a><br />
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<b>New Look 6598</b>: I've had this pattern for many years. This pattern deserves better than to waste away in my stash.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5669341861/" title="N6598a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="N6598a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5186/5669341861_45b776e19e.jpg" width="353" /></a><br />
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<b>Simplicity 2403</b>: Not the double-breasted version<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5669955204/" title="S2403a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="S2403a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5030/5669955204_c0eb011834.jpg" width="351" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5669955228/" title="S2403c by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="S2403c" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5147/5669955228_64ed010da0.jpg" width="348" /></a><br />
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<b>Vogue 1034</b><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5670888216/" title="V1034a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V1034a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5186/5670888216_b32574bbc4.jpg" width="380" /></a><br />
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<b>For my alternative to sweatpants:</b> I think I actually need 2 kinds of alternatives. One type of outfit that I could run out to the store in and not look like a bum. Another type for lounging around the house. <b> </b><br />
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<b>Alternative #1: </b><br />
<b>Vogue 1197</b><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5678167335/" title="V1197a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V1197a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5269/5678167335_2a5004d68b.jpg" width="382" /></a><br />
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<b>Alternative #2: </b><br />
<b>Butterick 5216</b>: Views C and D can hide the belly and if I add some discrete coverage to the front bodice, I can skip the bra. Bras are evil.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5417565408/" title="B5216a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="B5216a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5417565408_af0e63508f.jpg" width="339" /></a><br />
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<b>Simplicity 2367</b>: The pants or capris<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5669955124/" title="S2367a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="S2367a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5302/5669955124_ff5b6a40ac.jpg" width="349" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Of course, the essentials only work if you have the right accessories. This is where I am in need of serious help. Tackling one area at a time....</span>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-79757992283086215282011-04-24T13:10:00.000-04:002011-04-24T13:10:32.887-04:00Sewing groupsDo you belong to one? I always shunned these before. I figured they were full of women talking about kids and quilts. Neither of which interested me. Now I'm the president of the local chapter of the American Sewing Guild. Clearly I've changed my opinion about sewing groups. What did it? Well, maturity for one. I'm in my 30's now and find myself much more open to trying new things without making assumptions first.<br />
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Probably the most significant event that changed my mind...I signed up for a week-long sewing class. Some of you may remember my Nashville Chanel and wrecked car, that is the very week I am referring to. The class consisted of 10 women, all but one of them older than me. We had very different backgrounds...pilot, court reporter, nurse, small business owner, fashion design instructor, etc. We all had very different skill levels and goals for the class...make a bias skirt that doesn't have wonky seams, design a complex dress from scratch, make a date-night dress for evenings with the hubby, and for me, just learn something new. I didn't even have a project of my own to do. I asked a friend if I could make one of her Victorian dresses for her because I wanted a complex project that would allow me to learn the most. If you've read this blog in the past, you know that dress never materialized but I did start a classic French jacket that makes me feel like a talented seamstress and smart, successful woman. Not too shabby for not having a clear goal upfront. <br />
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I was nervous about signing up for this class. I have solid basic skills but hadn't sewn much over the last 10 years. I figured a $1,000-class would bring in experienced seamstresses with expensive machines. I own 2 basic Singer machines: $150 mechanical one purchased at Target and my $400 commercial machine with a jet engine. No Bernina, Janome, Viking or Pfaff for me. When I showed up, I realized I did have the cheapest, least jazzy machine there. I also had the loudest machine. I was self-conscious at first but quickly realized no one cared. They even came by to look at my machine and learn about its features. Surely something that loud was interesting as well.<br />
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Over the course of the week I discovered I didn't feel nervous or out of place at all. I belonged right where I was at that moment. These ladies were fun, interesting and supportive. We each had very different styles but somehow found each other's project beautiful and wanted to learn more. Maybe we bonded over the fact that we each spent a buttload of money to be there. I think we bonded more so because we shared a common interest: wanting to improve our sewing skills and learn from others.<br />
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I've missed that group of women since the class ended. I also realized that I can prep, cut and sew much faster than I ever have. I'd like to believe the comaraderie got the creative juices flowing to the point that I didn't stop to doubt myself or think too much about the next step. Just do it.<br />
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The point of this long-winded rambling is I decided before moving from Memphis to Chattanooga that I wanted to join a sewing group. I was going to put aside the idea that all sewing groups are a bunch of older ladies making quilts and talking about kids. Problem was that Chattanooga didn't have a formal sewing group that I could find; no BurdaStyle Club, no American Sewing Guild (ASG) chapter, nothing. (I have since learned, now that I live here, that there are a few sewing groups around but they aren't that easy to find.) By contacting the ASG chapters surrounding Chattanooga, I found a few locals that were also interested in forming a chapter. So now I'm the president of the Chattanooga chapter of the ASG, go figure. And most of the ladies I've met are old enough to be my mother, and they talk about their kids, and they all quilt. And I love spending time with them. I even want to learn to quilt. They want to learn to make clothes. We inspire one another. Isn't that what sewing groups are really all about? <br />
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As the president of the local ASG chapter I extend an invitation to all those that sew. Young or old, beginner or advanced, those with fancy tools and those that bought their gadgets in the same store they bought toilet paper and apple juice. No matter if you only sew clothes, quilts, or slipcovers. All are invited because your companionship warms my heart. I want to know what you know. I want to see what you've made. You inspire me. I hope that I can inspire you as well.<br />
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<b>The Chattanooga chapter of the American Sewing Guild will be meeting the 3rd Tuesday of every month (except in June) at 6:30 pm at St. John United Methodist Church (3921 Murray Hills Drive). </b><br />
<b><br />
</b><br />
<b>Our upcoming meetings are:</b><br />
<ul><li><b>May 17--Meet & Greet, Show & Tell (bring your current projects, UFOs, favorite fabric/book/notion, anything to share)</b></li>
<li><b>June 14 (2nd Tuesday)--Paper Piecing demonstration</b></li>
</ul><b>Contact me for more details: julstech at gmail dot com </b>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-79511839456735654512011-04-23T22:49:00.000-04:002011-04-23T22:49:20.636-04:00A pathetic follow-upIt has been 13 days so time for an update.<b> </b><br />
<ul><li><b>How many hours per day/week do you sew?</b></li>
</ul>None since April 10th. Now if you count anything sewing-related, I spend time "sewing" every day. I either read, plan or organize. Like I said in my previous post on this topic, I am a "thinker" so I don't spend a lot of time "doing."<br />
<ul><li><b>What are you spending/wasting the rest of your free time on?</b></li>
</ul>Applying for jobs and actually going on job interviews. I will forgive myself a little bit since getting a job is definitely more important than sewing (how else will I afford more fabric?). I spent yesterday afternoon tidying up my sewing space. I consider that productive as the mess was stifling any creativity I had. Oh, and I've been reading about sewing. I started drafting my moulage a la Kenneth King.<br />
<ul><li><b>When you do sew, how do you feel before, during and afterwards?</b></li>
</ul>No sewing equals nothing new to add here.<br />
<ul><li><b>What factors are you aware of that impact upon when you make time to sew?</b></li>
</ul>Mostly my mood. I'm a little down in the dumps right now; being unemployed does that to you. Making time to sew (rather, work on sewing-related stuff) does help improve my mood though. Seems like a no-brainer (sewing=improved mood) but motivation is lacking some times.<br />
<ul></ul><ul><li> <b>What are you learning about sewing productivity from this process, if anything? What tips can you share?</b></li>
</ul>Just do it. Even if you only have 30 minutes, do something to move your projects along.Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-1475448216913268902011-04-10T10:39:00.000-04:002011-04-10T10:39:52.767-04:00An experiment in productivityI've written about trying to make better use of my free time for sewing but I've never found the "trick." Truth is, I'm lazy when it comes to free time. I'm an efficient, organized person at work and a complete mess at home. <a href="http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2011/04/launching-sewing-productivity-project.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+tillyandthebuttons+%28Tilly+and+the+Buttons%29">Tilly</a> had a neat idea to compile a list of our productivity pitfalls. I'm going to participate by airing all my dirty laundry for the next 2 weeks. Of course, now that I'm logging how I spend my time, I'm sure I'll clean up my act a little bit (kinda like dieters who eat better when they keep a diary). Maybe that is my trick, keep a log. Here goes....<br />
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<br />
<ul><li><b>How many hours per day/week do you sew?</b></li>
</ul>Ummm, none in 2 weeks. Does reading about sewing count?<br />
<ul><li><b>What are you spending/wasting the rest of your free time on?</b></li>
</ul>Computer and books, mostly. A group of ladies and I just started the Chattanooga chapter of the American Sewing Guild and I was coerced into being the president. I've been making a lot of arrangements for this group. I also have been reading about starting my own sewing business and researching ideas and resources for that. <br />
<ul><li><b>When you do sew, how do you feel before, during and afterwards?</b></li>
</ul>I don't recall how I feel before I sew but I definitely feel energized when I sew, like I have a very important task to complete. As I get close to finishing, I can hardly sit still in my chair because I'm excited to finish a project. Afterwards, I feel like I've accomplished something and I admire my work proudly. I probably spend a bit too much time admiring it.<br />
<ul><li> <b>What factors are you aware of that impact upon when you make time to sew?</b></li>
</ul>Somehow I found time to sew a few weeks ago when DH was expecting me to finish some curtains so he could hang them up over the weekend. I think deadlines help; not wanting to let someone else down. When DH comes home in the evening, I prefer not to sew because I see so little of him. I should sew on Saturday and Sunday mornings because he sleeps in and I get up rather early. Like right now, I'm blogging and generally goofing off on the internet instead of sewing. <br />
<ul><li> <b>What are you learning about sewing productivity from this process, if anything? What tips can you share?</b></li>
</ul>Do, don't think. I'm a thinker. I spend way more time thinking about stuff I want to do than actually doing them. I'm also highly motivated by people's expectations. I don't ever want to let someone down so I will work like mad to get something done on time. Somehow my personal deadlines aren't nearly as important to me.Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-65082249337134070112011-04-10T10:22:00.000-04:002011-04-10T10:22:57.801-04:00Tools of the TradeEveryone has a few sewing tools they can't live without and a few more they can't believe they wasted money on. The process of packing and unpacking my sewing stuff has given me pause for thought. My sewing tools fall into 4 categories: (1) Love them, use them all the time, (2) Neat tool for specific situations, (3) Looked cool in the store, haven't used it yet, and (4) I want a refund, what a piece of crap.<br />
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<div style="color: blue;"><b><u>#1--Love them, use them all the time</u></b></div><b>Sewing gauge</b><br />
A handy, multipurpose little gem that doesn't cost much. Unfortunately, I still haven't found mine after 3 days of unpacking. At least I know where the JoAnn's is in my new town.<br />
<br />
<b>Retractable tape measure</b><br />
It measures, it retracts, and it's a cat toy. Oh, and cheap. If you buy one in 5/8-inch width, it also helps you quickly and easily mark sewing seam allowances on your Big 4 patterns.<br />
<br />
<b>Chalk</b><br />
I have several types of marking items (see the "I want a refund, what a piece of crap" category) but my favorite has always been the basic hunk of chalk, preferably in a holder with a sharpener available. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5605759203/" title="Chalk by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Chalk" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5267/5605759203_6eea5c4bc4.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Magnetic pin cushion/wand/nest</b><br />
One can never have enough magnetic gadgets for picking up or holding pins. The "nest" is the best for traveling and the wand works great for finding pins in the carpet.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5606342240/" title="Magnetic pincushions by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Magnetic pincushions" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4103/5606342240_dcce5a06c9.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Paper medical tape</b><br />
This little gem earned me a nod in Threads magazine. I use it to hold "cording" in place for my corded buttonholes. I mark seam allowance guides on my machine. I tape patterns together after altering (or attack from kitty claws). <br />
<br />
<b>Over-sized cardboard mat</b><br />
I use this mat for cutting out patterns, adjusting patterns, laying out fabric, measuring fabric, protecting fabric from rough table edges and as a work surface in general. It's not a huge investment ($15-25 USD) but I guard it against cat claws and husbands that want to jot a note down and see this surface as a table to lean on.<br />
<br />
<b>Wooden yard stick</b><br />
I misplaced it once and had to buy another. Unfortunately the store I went to only had metal ones. I dislike metal rulers. They don't feel right in my hand. Plastic and wood are more comfortable to work with. Wood is great because I haven't broken one yet. The plastic rulers haven't fared so well.<br />
<br />
<b>Cheap ink pen and Sharpie</b><br />
Sometimes this is a better marking tool than chalk. I use those crappy hotel pens to mark patterns and fabrics (in places it won't show). The cheap pens are also good for writing on muslin when you are recreating a pattern. I also use Sharpies for marking up muslins during fitting.<br />
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<b>Rowenta steam iron</b><br />
Do yourself a favor and invest in a good iron. I can't afford the fancy steamers but I did upgrade to a nice Rowenta iron (on sale and it came with a rebate at Bed Bath & Beyond). I used to hate ironing and now I find it almost enjoyable and most definitely easier.<br />
<br />
<b>Seam ripper</b><br />
I have 2 styles that I love. One is the basic cheap seam ripper that you can buy in any store. The other is like a scalpel and I have 2 different styles, a curved one designed for ripping seams and the other is supposed to be a buttonhole cutter. The cheap seam ripper is great when the fabric you are handling is sturdy or you want to pull the thread out as opposed to cut it. The scalpel seam ripper works well with delicate fabrics, when you need precision control, and I sometimes use it for pulling out threads (I turn it so the dull side can be used). I also use the buttonhole slicer for cutting/ripping seams and cutting open buttonholes. In a pinch, I use cheap razor blades for cutting buttonholes as well.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5606343550/" title="Seam Ripper by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Seam Ripper" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5308/5606343550_765e894349.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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<br />
<b>Accessory feet</b><br />
<br />
I found a retailer that sold just about every accessory for my sewing machine so I waited for a sale. I ended up spending over $200 USD just on accessory feet. With the exception of one, I've used them all and found them very handy. The ones that get the most use are the edgestitcher, walking foot and the stitch-in-the-ditch feet. My topstitching has improved by leaps and bounds with the edgestitcher. I now understand why some people <u>only</u> sewing with a walking foot. Sure you could pin fabrics together to align the ends perfectly...or you can just use the walking foot and stop cursing and stabbing yourself with pointy pins. I also found an automatic buttonholer for my Singer (the kind that comes with tons of buttonhole plates). This thing has always worked so much better than any buttonhole function on any machine I've ever owned.<br />
<br />
<b>Beeswax</b><br />
The packaging doesn't tell you how to use it and I couldn't understand how it would work (and not damage your needle or fabric). Then I had a "duh" moment in a sewing class...you need to heat up the wax. Don't I feel silly. I hated hand stitching until I finally figured out how to use this stuff. What a time saver! In my defense, every packaged beeswax I've ever picked up says nothing about using heat, just to run your thread through it. I suppose you could use it without heat but I like it iron it.<br />
<div style="color: blue;"><br />
<u><b>#2 Neat tools</b></u></div><b> Tailor's ham & Point presser/clapper</b><br />
I just bought these last year. Before that, I used to create really odd contraptions to iron hard-to-reach places. Besides, "clapper" just sounds funny.<br />
<br />
<b>Buttonhole gauge</b><br />
Looks like an accordion and really isn't a necessary tool but makes life easier when your brain won't do basic math. Figure out how many buttons you will have, put point one at the first buttonhole and the last point at the last buttonhole...ta-da! Buttonhole spacing is perfectly even every time. When I took my couture sewing class in Nashville last summer, we went shopping at Textile Fabrics. I was so excited to shop in a store with nothing but fashion fabrics but when I entered I felt overwhelmed. I ended up buying this buttonhole gauge, the above-mentioned clapper and buttons for my Nashville Chanel. Even the salesperson was surprised I didn't buy fabric. The store was even having a sale on every piece of fabric and still I bought none. Do you see how overwhelmed I was?!!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5606343296/" title="Buttonhole gauge by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Buttonhole gauge" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5261/5606343296_5aa4280fed.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<br />
<b>Sewing needle pin cushion/storage</b><br />
Everyone has their system for keeping track of what a needle is and how much use its had. I've never been able to maintain a system. I found this little gem in JoAnn's and I use it consistently every time. I'm still not sure how you are supposed to estimate how many hours you have sewn with a particular needle so I probably change them sooner than I need to.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5605759497/" title="Pincushion with needle types by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Pincushion with needle types" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5228/5605759497_46666a9200.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<br />
<div style="color: blue;"><u><b>#3 Looked cool, haven't use it yet</b></u></div><b>Jean-a-ma-jig</b><br />
We all have them. Do you use yours? When I get to the seam that could use a boost to stitch over, I just plow on through instead of stopping to find my Jean-a-ma-jig. I think it's still in the package too.<br />
<br />
<b>Serger foot for conventional sewing machine</b><br />
Yes, I know it doesn't make your sewing machine function like a serger but it supposedly stitches and trims at the same time. Sounded handy but I've never used it. It was the most expensive accessory foot I bought too.<b> </b><br />
<br />
<div style="color: blue;"><u><b>#4 Piece of crap</b></u></div><b>Chalkoner</b><br />
Seriously, how do you make this thing work? Mine won't work on any fabric. I even have 2 of them and neither will mark so clearly I'm doing something wrong. In the meantime, I'm blaming it on the Chalkoner.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5605758647/" title="Chalkoner by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Chalkoner" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/5605758647_241978d7b3.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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<br />
<b>Marking Pens</b><br />
Disappearing ink, different colored ink, wash-away ink, doesn't matter. I dislike them all. They make me nervous (what if the ink doesn't come out?). I trust chalk. I can make it disappear every time. If I mark incorrectly with chalk, I can fix it immediately without waiting for ink to disappear or finding a wet sponge to remove ink.<br />
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<b>Uniquely You dress form</b><br />
First, the service sucks. Doesn't matter who you buy it from because the retailer will have to contact the manufacturer (one-person shop) to send it to you. He is slow to ship, didn't include every part I needed, and then refused to return my calls or phone calls from the retailer I bought it from. I finally did receive everything but I think this dress form is already ruined for me. The cover was a pain to fit so I'm making my own. I now wish I had saved my money and bought an adjustable Ronis instead.<br />
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<b>Snips</b><br />
This is more of a danger to me than a piece of crap. Everyone said "you must buy snips/snippers, etc.", so I did. I've cut my fingers (deeply, I might add) on many occasions. I've decided I simply can't afford to keep replacing fabric I've bled on so my Fiskars snips stay safely in my drawer.Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-73388900241418476212011-03-19T10:25:00.000-04:002011-03-19T10:25:03.422-04:00Where did the time go?!Wait, I know where the time went. DH and I moved further into TN last week. We now live in Eastern Time Zone so we lost an hour coming from Central. Then on Sunday morning we lost another hour. Losing 2 hours has really messed with our internal clocks. I'm adjusting a bit better than he. I've spent most of my life on EST. I will admit that CST is better because you can still watch all your favorite late TV programs without staying up too late. <br />
<br />
The move was extremely tiring and stressful and it felt that way from the very beginning. My fat cat peed in my new car; not just in the car, but on the car seat. Resolve carpet cleaner works wonders, in case you didn't know. Before she peed, I spent 5 hours driving and listening to a chorus of yowls and whining from our little runt, the vocal cat, and our fat, older cat who is normally very quiet (and litter box trained). You would have thought I was abusing these cats based on the terrible noises they made. If you happen to only ride with one cat in the car, drape a blanket over the pet carrier. The cat should settle down in no time. Unfortunately, I had 2 cats and they were talking to each other. I'm betting the conversation went like this.<br />
<br />
Fat cat: This sucks!<br />
Runt cat: Dude, this really sucks!<br />
Runt cat: Do you smell something?<br />
Fat cat: Sorry, I peed.<br />
Runt cat: Thanks for the stink, butthead.<br />
Fat cat: Bite me, you little runt.<br />
Runt cat: THIS SUCKS! I want a lap to sit in.<br />
Fat cat: I want a snack...and a clean bed.<br />
<br />
I couldn't be mad at fat cat, partly because I felt sorry for her but mostly because I walked into our new home to find it trashed (thanks to the previous tenants). After the cat pee and dirty house, the move went as moves typically go; many trips to Lowe's and Wal-mart, lots of boxes and paper strewn about, and endless decisions about where things should go. I didn't get a dedicated sewing room but I did get 2 closets to store my supplies and fabric, an much better fabric storage system, and great natural light for sewing. Not too shabby at all. With our next move, I'm hoping for a little more space so I can have a room all to myself.<br />
<br />
My first sewing project is window treatments for the house. I've never successfully made window treatments before but I have 4 Singer books just on window treatments so I'm optimistic this time. Wish me luck.<br />
<br />
<br />
<i><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif; font-size: large;">--Julie</span></i>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-44600682203379728112011-02-24T21:35:00.000-05:002011-02-24T21:35:26.609-05:00Happy Birthday!Well, technically a belated birthday. I can finally show you the gifts I made for my sister because her birthday was yesterday. First up is the "snood", or what <a href="http://www.bernat.com/pattern.php?PID=4515&cps=21191">Bernat calls a "hooded cowl</a>." DH says it is half-scarf and half-hood, hence "scood."<br />
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Snood, aka "Scood"<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5463166857/" title="Erin's Cowl pic1 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Erin's Cowl pic1" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5463166857_ff463f3f79.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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This was super easy to crochet but I made mistakes anyway. I'm not diligent about stitch counting or marking, and you need to do that when you crochet in the round. The busy yarn is hiding my mistakes nicely though. I used <a href="http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/melody-bulky-wool-blend-yarn-624379/">Melody Bulky Wool blend yarn</a> in Harlequin. The cowl is basically a really tall tube so an adventurous crocheter could change the stitch design easily.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5463766608/" title="Erin's Cowl pic 2 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Erin's Cowl pic 2" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5463766608_4df84b4376.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5375025509/" title="Melody Hooded Cowl Jan 2011 pic 1 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Melody Hooded Cowl Jan 2011 pic 1" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5289/5375025509_f7b0407fef.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
My sister fell in love with some fingerless gloves I made over the Christmas break. I found the patterns at <a href="http://www.naturallycaron.com/">NaturallyCaron.com</a>. I made both pairs of gloves with Naturally Caron Country yarn.<br />
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Slouchy Gloves in Charcoal and Silver Service (<a href="http://www.naturallycaron.com/projects/charleston/charleston_1.html">Charleston Fingerless Gloves</a>)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5463766364/" title="Erin's slouch gloves pic 1 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Erin's slouch gloves pic 1" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5463766364_c5b34f6cb3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5463765580/" title="Erin's slouch gloves pic 3 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Erin's slouch gloves pic 3" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5298/5463765580_4038560f7a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
These gloves run super large. I know they are supposed to be slouchy but they would fall right off if you made them in the size you would normally wear. I used a smaller crochet hook to shrink the size some but the palm and wrist are still too big. Just a warning in case you try these for yourself.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5463164081/" title="Erin's slouch gloves pic 4 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Erin's slouch gloves pic 4" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/5463164081_9daacb6e43.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
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Peacock Gloves (<a href="http://www.naturallycaron.com/projects/memphis/memphis_1.html">Memphis Fingerless Gloves</a>)<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5463163301/" title="Erin's peacock gloves pic 2 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Erin's peacock gloves pic 2" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5011/5463163301_bea7be35b6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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These were made according to the gauge and look small but actually fit quite well.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5463163889/" title="Erin's peacock gloves pic 1 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Erin's peacock gloves pic 1" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5135/5463163889_1d238e297b.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
<br />
I'm actually making another pair of the Peacock gloves for myself. The color is just gorgeous and the yarn is so silky to the touch. <br />
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My mother's birthday is just around the corner. DH and I are moving on my mother's birthday so I've decided it was crazy of me to <a href="http://julstech.blogspot.com/2011/02/still-hookin.html">attempt to sew anything for her</a>. I've been working on a cowl. She just might get that as a present instead.<br />
<br />
My sister-in-law liked the <a href="http://julstech.blogspot.com/2011/01/stitching-but-not-sewing.html">baby Converse</a> I made for her son. I think they are pretty cute too but I cursed throughout the construction process so I won't be making those again.<br />
<br />
It's moving time. DH has politely reminded me several times that the moving truck is coming in a week so I need to wrap up my projects and start packing. Honestly, I'd rather struggle with a poorly fitted muslin than pack and organize our belongings. We're off to a better place and hopefully a promising next chapter in our lives so I guess I'll quite griping.<br />
<br />
I'll post next time from our new home.<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">--Julie</span></i></span>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-34415552608947347582011-02-15T14:59:00.001-05:002011-02-16T09:32:44.866-05:00Rihanna at the Grammys<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pVY2r109QkI/TVra4m-JucI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/EnAXuNxoOpM/s1600/RIHANNA-GRAMMYS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" h5="true" height="272" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pVY2r109QkI/TVra4m-JucI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/EnAXuNxoOpM/s320/RIHANNA-GRAMMYS.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
(www.huffingtonpost.com)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://s161.photobucket.com/albums/t237/laurieire/?action=view&current=toiletpapermummy.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="toilet paper mummy" border="0" src="http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t237/laurieire/toiletpapermummy.jpg" /></a><br />
(Photo credit: laurieire on Photobucket)<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">If Rihanna had used a 3-ply roll, she could've finished the dress.</span>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-79422354617927206052011-02-05T16:50:00.002-05:002011-02-15T15:13:52.064-05:00Still hookin'Still hookin' with a crochet hook (not on the street).<br />
<br />
I'm almost finished with crocheting my sister's presents. I'll post them after February 22 so she doesn't get a sneak peek on this site. I was searching the web for some free patterns and stumbled on some crochet blogs. Some are so funny that I almost spit out my lunch because I was laughing so hard. I have also found tons of amigurumi patterns online. I'll admit I'm fascinated by the amigurumi technique. Granted, many items fall into the why-would-you-bother category but others would make great gag gifts or fun toys for kids. I'll hold onto the why-bother patterns for my later years. My goal is to be the crazy lady on the block with purple hair, ridiculous housecoats and 20 cats. Wouldn't a collection of crocheted tea cups and vegetable/fruit platters fit in nicely?<br />
<br />
But I digress...the award for "So Funny I Almost Peed" goes to....<br />
<br />
<a href="http://whatnottocrochet.wordpress.com/">What Not to Crochet</a><br />
<br />
Seriously, check that site out. <i><b>Who would crochet this stuff?!!</b></i><br />
<br />
If you are looking for amigurumi patterns, this site delivers on a regular basis: <a href="http://freeamigurumipatterns.blogspot.com/">Free Amigurumi Patterns</a><br />
Granted, there are some why-bother and what-the-hell patterns, but I enjoy browsing nonetheless. <br />
<br />
In case you're wondering if I've forgotten that this is a sewing blog, I haven't. My mother, who doesn't read my blog or even know what a blog is, will probably receive some sewn tops/jackets from me for her birthday. (Notice the word "probably"--gives me a an easy out if I fall behind and can't produce the gifts on time.)<br />
<br />
I have a huge stash of fabric to purge but it just occurred to me that several of those fabrics, although not in good colors for me, are of good quality and possibly in better colors for my mother. <br />
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My mother is a fan of baggie tops that fall below her hips and she loves turtlenecks and oversized button-front blouses. It's difficult to sew clothes to fit someone who lives too far away to be available for an actual fitting. I guess I'm lucky she prefers baggie clothes to fitted ones. There were several contenders for her birthday present but I have narrowed it down to two.<br />
<b><br />
</b><br />
<b>Butterick 5467</b><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5416960395/" title="B5467a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="B5467a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5416960395_03a7bdddbe.jpg" width="345" /></a><br />
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View C is basically what she loves to wear but it doesn't have buttons and it is a tad shorter. Somehow wearing a shirt open looks better when it doesn't have buttons, therefore, it is a jacket. I have a pretty pink poplin or a light blue with white stripe broadcloth-like fabric to use for this.<br />
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<b>Butterick 5254</b><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5416956283/" title="B5254a by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="B5254a" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5416956283_f9e11a442e.jpg" width="339" /></a><br />
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Love, love, love this pattern! Several different fabrics are suitable for this, including fleece. I have a charcoal gray and a navy fleece; both with just enough yardage to pull off view A or view D. I'd like to use a nice wool but I promised myself (and my husband) that I would shop from my stash only. The pink poplin and blue broadcloth are also from my stash. Heck, I even have threads, buttons, and interfacing!!<br />
<br />
Keeping my fingers crossed that I finish at least one of these tops. It would be nice to <i>actually</i> show you some sewing progress.<br />
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Enjoy the rest of your weekend! <br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">-Julie</span></i></span>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-50609642602334116022011-01-21T17:00:00.001-05:002011-02-15T15:14:11.144-05:00Threads Magazine is publishing a sewing bookYou had to know this was coming...Threads editors are publishing a comprehensive sewing book. It isn't just clippings from the past 20 years of Threads magazine either. I was doubtful this book would be worth purchasing since a) I have so many books, and b) every comprehensive sewing book out there claims to have everything in it and they never do. First off, this book already appears to have some nice diagrams and explanations of concepts that other books usually gloss over. At this point in my sewing, I don't need those details because I've already figured it out but they would have been helpful 5 years ago.<br />
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There is a nice preview (meaning you can look at tons of the pages instead of just 5 pages) on the <a href="http://www.tauntonstore.com/threads-sewing-guide-071294.html">Taunton website</a>. After skimming the preview, I am intrigued but the section on threads is basic and inadequate as in most books. The zippers chapter is much better than others; lots of photos of each type of zipper and an actual comparison of metal vs plastic vs coil teeth. I've only seen one other author cover that in a book (<i>Making Trousers for Men & Women </i>by David Page Coffin). There is an interesting section that describes measuring yourself to estimate how much yardage you need for a particular garment; nice idea for those that work without patterns or have no specific pattern in mind for a must-have fabric.<br />
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One gripe...all skinny, young models. Where are all the REAL women? If you need a model with wide hips, a large, round booty, and a stomach pooch, call me. I'll show my crazy curves in exchange for a free copy of the book (and a lifetime subscription to Threads).<br />
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For more details on the book, check the Taunton website. I'm on the fence about this one. I'd like to see it in a bookstore first. You know, sit down and basically skim every page in the book before I commit to buying it. So as you are walking through Barnes & Noble, please don't trip on me. I'll be the lumpy, curvy chick sitting on the floor because all the skinny, coffee drinkers took the chairs. <br />
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<a href="http://www.tauntonstore.com/threads-sewing-guide-071294.html">Threads Sewing Guide</a>, available April 4, 2011<br />
<ul><li><strong>Dimensions</strong> 9 3/16 x 10 7/8</li>
<li><strong>Pages</strong> 392</li>
<li><strong>Photos</strong> 1010</li>
<li><strong>Drawings</strong> 229</li>
</ul>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-42289324327286254382011-01-21T16:18:00.002-05:002011-02-15T15:15:34.640-05:00Book Review: Customize Your Sewing Patterns for a Perfect Fit by Mary Morris & Sally McCann<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4277794539/" title="Customize your sewing patterns for a perfect fit by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Customize your sewing patterns for a perfect fit" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4277794539_7bd84a4474.jpg" width="418" /></a><br />
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Paperback, 144 pages <br />
Published in 2002<br />
ISBN: 9781579903244<br />
Suggested retail price $14.95 USD, OOP, available used on <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Customize-Your-Sewing-Patterns-Perfect/dp/157990324X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1264273681&sr=8-1">Amazon</a><br />
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This book is written by two of the <a href="http://www.gstreetfabrics.com/">G Street Fabrics </a>sewing instructors. Initially I was really excited about this book but when I tried to apply the techniques, I made a huge mess of my project. I think you need to determine how your mind works, how your creative process works best in order to pick a fitting technique that will work for you. This book relies on measurements and calculating widths to add and subtract from the pattern pieces before you make a muslin. I figured this was right up my alley because I've always been great at math. Problem is that math doesn't fit into my creative process very well. I'm a fan of the pinch a little, tuck a little method. Muslins allowed me to do that. If you feel more comfortable fitting by measurement, then this is the book for you. If you prefer to pinch, tuck and pull, then get Palmer/Pletsch's <i>Fit for Real People</i>. I also feel like Fit for Real People addresses more fitting issues than this book. Another great source for people who like to use a little of each fitting method is the <i>Fitting & Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration</i> by Liechty, Rashband, and Pottberg-Steineckert.<br />
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For the time being, I'm going to shelve this book. I may find a use for it in the future.<br />
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<b>Book/Chapter Headings:</b><br />
<b>1. Getting Started</b><br />
Basic introduction with a glossary and explanation of alteration methods, including the slash-and-pivot, wedge-slash-and-pivot, the L-slash, and the Box methods.<br />
<b><br />
</b><br />
<b>2. Understanding and Comparing Fitting Patterns</b><br />
Explains how to determine pattern size, particularly when you would use your bust vs. high bust measurements. There is a really nice chart of all the major pattern companies and the differences in sizes for their basic bodice, sleeve, and skirt patterns. I've seen variations of these charts before but this is the most comprehensive I've ever seen. The pants pattern comparison and an additional lower body measurement chart are in the chapter about pants fitting. <b> </b><br />
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<b>3. Taking Your Measurements and Preparing the Fitting Pattern</b><br />
A few nice pictures of where you should measure yourself but the best part of this chapter is the detailed measuring chart and instructions. More pictures would make this chapter gold. There are also a few line drawings demonstrating exactly where to measure a pattern piece to compare to your own measurements<b>. </b><br />
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<b>4. Fitting Problems and Solutions</b><br />
Lots of pictures of REAL women wearing poorly and properly fitting clothes. Helpful but I think the<b> </b>Palmer/Pletsch's <i>Fit for Real People</i> covers this better and with many more pictures.<br />
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<b>5. Fitting the Bodice</b><br />
The authors recommend doing the bust adjustment first, and saving the shoulder, front chest and upper back adjustments for a tissue fit. I suppose this could work if you have the side seams and shoulder seams in perfect position before starting. Personally, I find that if I fix my shoulders and upper back first, the bust alteration is either not needed or not as extreme. Good illustrations of the concepts explained. There is a detailed explanation of a tissue fit as well. Again, I prefer Palmer/Pletsch's <i>Fit for Real People </i>because there are many more pictures and they are in color which helps highlight wrinkles in the tissues, etc. Like I said earlier, this section was a nightmare for me. After many measurements, slashes, and pivots, I had destroyed my pattern and was no closer to a nice fitting bodice. At this point, I simply skimmed the rest of the book and then shelved it. I haven't referred to it since.<b> </b><br />
<b> </b><br />
The remaining chapters follow the same pattern as the above chapter: explanation of which adjustments to make first, what qualifies as a major or minor adjustment, diagrams to demonstrate whatever alteration method is recommended, and a couple pictures of the final muslin.<b> </b><br />
<b>6. Fitting the Sleeve</b><br />
<b>7. Fitting the Skirt</b><br />
<b>8. Fitting Pants</b><br />
<b></b><br />
<b>9. Preserving and Using Your Personal Fitting Patterns</b><br />
There is a nice figure showing you what a dolman vs raglan sleeve is, basque waist, princess seam, etc. The figure is very basic and leaves out quite a bit but this would be a good starting place for a beginner. This chapter also uses line drawings to demonstrate how you use your fitting pattern to make adjustments to your fashion patterns.<b> </b><br />
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<b>10.Using Your Personal Fitting Patterns as a Design Tool</b><br />
This is a very basic attempt to show you that you can use your fitting pattern to design your own garment. I think the following 2 books do a much better job: <i>Make Your Own Patterns by Rene Bergh</i> and <i>How to Make Sewing Patterns</i> by Donald McCunn.<b> </b><br />
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<b>11.Next Steps and New Directions</b><br />
<b>Appendix: Finding a Fitting Buddy</b><br />
<b>Annotated Bibliography</b><br />
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At this time, I don't think I would recommend this book to others. I have other books in my collection that cover fitting topics more comprehensively than this book.<b> </b>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-87843086138363764632011-01-21T10:35:00.001-05:002011-02-15T15:15:53.351-05:00Stitching but not sewingI've been crocheting like mad. At least I'm stitching something.<br />
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I got the brainy idea to make birthday presents for my sister and mother. Something has possessed me because I also wanted to make booties for my newest nephew.<br />
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These little booties were a lot harder to make than you would think. I still need to re-stitch the laces (too short) and make a second "star" for the right shoe.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5375025229/" title="Red Baby Converse Sneakers Jan 2011 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Red Baby Converse Sneakers Jan 2011" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5375025229_4cca202526.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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I made these long wrist warmers for myself while trying to use up some really old acrylic yarn in my stash. The pattern is from Naturally Caron and it's called <a href="http://naturallycaron.com/projects/memphis/memphis_1.html">Memphis Fingerless Gloves</a>. I made a ton of mistakes on one glove but I'm still pretty happy with them.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5375625180/" title="Caron Memphis Wrist Warmers Jan 2011 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Caron Memphis Wrist Warmers Jan 2011" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5129/5375625180_c4310fbf2e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5375025403/" title="Caron Memphis Wrist Warmers Jan 2011 pic 2 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Caron Memphis Wrist Warmers Jan 2011 pic 2" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5050/5375025403_45d0ac9b93.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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My sister loved them so I'm planning a pair for her. I'm also making a few other things for her but I can't go into detail now because <i>occasionally</i> she reads my blog.<br />
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Even though I still have several crochet projects planned, it is time to hit the sewing machine. I bought several pairs of pants from Eddie Bauer about a month ago. I haven't worn them because I haven't hemmed them. (Lazy, I know.) Well, the only 3 properly hemmed pants I own have officially shrunk from so much washing and drying. If I don't hem my newly acquired pants soon, I may be going pants-less! In Memphis, no one would probably bat an eye but I'd rather cover myself nonetheless.<br />
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Have a great weekend!Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-69770350045966645722011-01-16T13:08:00.001-05:002011-02-15T15:16:14.888-05:00Spring 2011 patterns!!I've shown incredible restraint with the new patterns being released but with the release of Vogue patterns, I cannot control myself anymore. Simplicity and McCall's had some cute patterns but not much that I just HAD to have. When I received my Vogue patterns magazine 2 weeks ago, I got a glimpse of the new spring patterns and I've been stalking the Vogue website and all the Hancock's and JoAnn Fabric stores in town. WHEN WILL VOGUE PATTERNS BE IN THE STORES?!!!! <br />
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So here are my picks from Simplicity, McCall's and Vogue. I'm not going to post all the Vogue patterns that everyone else is drooling over. I only liked a few of them anyway but I did see some real gems in the rest of the line-up.<br />
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McCall's did have several cute patterns but most looked like patterns I already own. The latest Palmer & Pletsch is worth picking up though.<br />
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McCall's <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6282-products-13585.php?page_id=96">6282</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5360925518/" title="M6282 front by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="M6282 front" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5360925518_fb47a58c89.jpg" width="378" /></a><br />
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Despite the cute factor in all of the <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/c-381-cynthia-rowley.aspx">Cynthia Rowley designs</a>, I don't see myself wearing any of them, except for #<a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-1545-misses-dresses.aspx">2857</a>. There were many cute patterns in the Simplicity Spring 2011 release but these are the only ones I bought.<br />
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Simplicity 2248 (try <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-5819-misses-dresses-project-runway-collection.aspx">this link</a> for a better view)<br />
I love the slimming effect of the midsection and the sleeve options.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5360915514/" title="S2248 front by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="S2248 front" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5360915514_2be168f911.jpg" width="348" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5360330167/" title="S2248 line by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="S2248 line" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5001/5360330167_121e1ab25e.jpg" width="348" /></a><br />
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Simplicity 2256 (<a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-5827-misses-jackets-project-runway-collection.aspx">better view</a>)<br />
I can't help it. I like the ruffled collar. I admit that with the wrong fabric, this jacket could go from cute and sassy to clown-ish.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5360302143/" title="S2256 front by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="S2256 front" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5360302143_4ca9f65847.jpg" width="344" /></a><br />
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Simplicity 2261 (<a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-5830-misses-sportswear.aspx">better view</a>)<br />
I actually bought this one for the tee with pleated trim at the neck/shoulders.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5360302055/" title="S2261 front by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="S2261 front" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5360302055_7a84cd67a1.jpg" width="345" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5359910931/" title="S2261 line by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="S2261 line" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5203/5359910931_8bb84f08fc.jpg" width="348" /></a><br />
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My less popular Vogue picks are all very wearable and (hopefully) won't languish in my pattern drawer for years.<br />
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Vogue 8715<br />
I love View B. The simple lines with the fullness in back.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5360525124/" title="V8715 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8715" height="475" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/5360525124_e562451691.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5360525248/" title="V8715 line by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8715 line" height="457" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/5360525248_498f3da02d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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Vogue 8718<br />
I'm still on the fence about the jacket. The sleeves are great but the fullness of the peplum front may make my hips look even bigger. The lines of the shirt and dress are nice.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5359910731/" title="V8718 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8718" height="475" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5283/5359910731_d2486b9142.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5360525228/" title="V8718 line by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8718 line" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5050/5360525228_d8af92abd2.jpg" width="344" /></a><br />
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Vogue 8721<br />
Another great Elizabeth Gillet design for shrugs and other eveningwear accessories. The deep silver/gray button-front jacket is gorgeous.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5359910761/" title="V8721 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8721" height="475" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5359910761_3eb191dfee.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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Vogue 8710<br />
Even DH loves the striped long-sleeve top. I'm not a fan of the big sleeves on the short sleeve tops.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5360525078/" title="V8710 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8710" height="475" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5360525078_99ab87013f.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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Vogue 8712<br />
I would never wear these pants to work but the pull-on pants could be great for loungewear or even exercising. I'm weird. I don't like wearing shorts to exercise. I prefer capri length or long pants.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5360525096/" title="V8712 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8712" height="475" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1420/5360525096_9e2b811375.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5359910861/" title="V8712 line by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8712 line" height="302" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5359910861_f4de454e0a.jpg" width="500" /></a> <br />
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Vogue 8714<br />
Definitely wear the jacket open. Just lovely.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5359910701/" title="V8714 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8714" height="475" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5208/5359910701_efe1ef401d.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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Vogue 8722<br />
I just might try to make some belts too!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5359910777/" title="V8722 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8722" height="475" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5128/5359910777_194881cd2c.jpg" width="450" /></a><br />
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I need more patterns like I need a broken-down car. I tried to curb this obsession but bottom line...they're cheap, they don't take up much space (at least they didn't until I bought hundreds of them), and I <u>WANT </u>them. Do you watch <a href="http://www.aetv.com/hoarders/index.jsp">Hoarders on A&E</a>? They need to start a reality show about people who craft. Come into our homes and find all our stashes of fabric, notions, patterns, books, yarn, etc. Our houses won't be messy. After all, messiness stifles creativity. But the sheer volume of stuff could be funny, embarassing, and a tad sad...just what reality TV is all about. Darn it. Now I need to find something to get rid of so I can make space for new patterns.Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-39542686245088861342011-01-04T07:39:00.002-05:002011-04-12T08:55:44.719-04:00I have a blog?!!!I admit it. I gave up on the blog last fall because I was overwhelmed with school and had no sewing to blog about. Who wants to read about endless sewing ideas that never come to fruition? I've been sewing vicariously through all my internet sewing friends. Y'all have been quite productive and creative. Kudos to you!!<br />
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2011 is all about new things for me. New town, new job, new free time, new hobbies, new sewing knowledge, new sewing confidence...<br />
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I've struggled a lot over the last year with managing my time, maintaining my focus on my sewing tasks, and finding inspiration and confidence in my sewing abilities. How will I address this? I'm not going to make up a list of sewing resolutions. <a href="http://julstech.blogspot.com/2009/12/newest-edition-to-my-family-and-new.html">I did that last year</a> and I failed miserably. I'm going back to the beginning. I have several comprehensive sewing books designed to teach someone how to sew. My favorites are the <a href="http://julstech.blogspot.com/2009/11/singer-complete-photo-guide-to-sewing.html">Singer Complete Photo Guide to Sewing</a> and the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Sewing-Readers-Digest/dp/0762104201">Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing</a>. Each thoroughly explains the techniques and the Reader's Digest book lays out projects for you to practice the techniques. I'm going back to Sewing 101 to get back into the swing of sewing, develop some confidence and focus on my sewing...and to finally start chipping away at the <a href="http://julstech.blogspot.com/2010/09/weekend-project-part-iifinished.html">fabric mountain</a> that has been growing in my closet.<br />
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Over the holidays I picked up an old hobby again. (<i>What?! She can't even manage the one hobby this blog is about. Now she has 2 hobbies!!</i>--Yes, now I have 2 hobbies, soon to be 3. Sometimes you just need to be crafty and don't want to be limited to one craft.) I figured it would be easier to bring plastic crochet hooks and yarn on the plane than scissors, pins, needles, seam ripper, fabric and thread. The TSA is funny about sharp metal objects. <br />
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I crocheted a pair of <a href="http://www.naturallycaron.com/projects/memphis/memphis_1.html">long fingerless gloves</a> during my holiday break (pictures coming soon). They are chock full of mistakes but I still love them. My sister has even asked for a pair for her birthday. I'm also crocheting <a href="http://www.macys.com/catalog/product/index.ognc?ID=348810&cm_mmc=Google_Feed-_-9-_-53-_-MP953">baby Converse sneakers</a> for my nephew. My third hobby will be knitting. I knitted one scarf many years ago. My stitches were so tight that the scarf rolled up and would never lie flat. I referred to it as the "noodle" over the years. I've since retired the "noodle" but still have a desire to learn how to knit beautiful sweaters to go with my sewn wardrobe.<br />
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Crocheting and knitting means joining the <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/account/login">Ravelry</a> crowd. LOVE that site! I wish sewers had a great site like that so we could easily catalog our books/patterns/fabrics. Ravelry is also where I found the best, most authentic-looking pattern for baby Converse sneakers. (<i>When I find the pattern link again, I'll post it with credit for the author.</i>)<br />
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So that is the update from my little corner of the web. Best wishes for a great year for all of you!!<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><i>--Julie</i></span>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-48446179794959553582010-12-19T09:26:00.001-05:002011-02-15T15:17:03.873-05:00<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/5273439219/" title="1994 graduation by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="1994 graduation" height="330" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5288/5273439219_9867a66dbc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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That's me in 1994 at my high school graduation. It's not a great photo but it is a special photo. My high school graduating class was 600+. The ceremony was at a very large pavilion. I don't know how my father did it but he figured out which entrance the graduates would be entering from. He made his way through the huge crowd and secured a prime spot on the bleachers overlooking the graduate entrance. When I walked through the door following behind 500 other students, I immediately began looking for my family. I was overwhelmed by the huge crowd. I just happened to look up and see my father scanning the graduate processional looking for me. I yelled, "Dad!" Out of all the fathers standing on those bleachers looking for their son or daughter, only my father responded to the call for "dad." He snapped this photo. I later asked him how he heard me over all the noise. He said, "I know my little girl's voice." And now I'm tearing up all over again. My dad is awesome.<br />
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I graduated again for the 5th time on Saturday, December 18, 2010. This was a special one for me because I'm never attending college again. I know people say "never say never" but I'm saying it. I'm tired and still in debt with student loans. I'm NEVER attending college again. I didn't go to this graduation because I'm tired of college. I have 4 college degrees. My public service announcement for today is choose your college degree program wisely. Future employment opportunities are very important to consider, especially since lenders insist on being paid back, whether you find a good job or not.<br />
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The 2nd most positive thing about finishing my 4th degree (besides always being "in demand in the industry") is now I can spend all my free time sewing. I haven't sewn a single stitch since August! I was so in withdrawal over not having time to sew, I bought sewing books instead. I've acquired several out-of-print books, like Susan Khalje's Sewing with Knits. I also was lucky enough to locate the entire Singer Sewing Reference Library from one seller on eBay. That series is gold, by the way. Buy them if you can find them. The pictures may be out-of-date but the information is still very good and tons of ideas to get the creative juices flowing.<br />
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Looking forward to sharing some actual sewing progress with you in the future. In the meantime, best wishes for a happy holiday with your dearest family and friends. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tommyhj/145269891/" title="Merry sleepy christmas! by Dr. Hemmert, on Flickr"><img alt="Merry sleepy christmas!" height="331" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/47/145269891_09335a0602.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
(Flickr: Dr. Hemmert)<br />
Be safe this holiday season. Borrow someone else's photo of their dressed up cat so you don't have to visit the emergency room yourself.Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-7809477377248267612010-09-06T23:28:00.001-04:002011-02-15T15:17:33.883-05:00Weekend Project Part II...FINISHED!I have <u><b>317.875 yards</b></u> of fabric (including linings) in my fabric stash.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/andraspfaff/2266026377/" title="Purple Shock by •●pfaff, on Flickr"><img alt="Purple Shock" height="500" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2215/2266026377_e486546200.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
(Flickr: pfaff)<br />
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I didn't include muslin or interfacing in this total. Is that cheating?<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hellokittygroupie/2511985733/" title="Bashful by Ebonezer, on Flickr"><img alt="Bashful" height="500" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3127/2511985733_a306e672f5.jpg" width="473" /></a><br />
(Flickr: Ebonezar)<br />
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I found small stashes of fabric in just about every room of my home. I don't have a dedicated sewing space so keeping it all stashed in one place is impossible. I highly recommend that anyone with more than one fabric stash put together a fabric stash notebook. At least now I know what I have when I can't see it in the first place.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4965976241/" title="Fabric Stash book outside cover by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Fabric Stash book outside cover" height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/4965976241_43f4178cfa.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4965976473/" title="Fabric Stash book inside pages by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Fabric Stash book inside pages" height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/4965976473_155d151ac9.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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Get your <a href="http://www.quiltingarts.com/media/p/21413.aspx">fabric stash book at STITCH magazine</a>!Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-57195764038981175532010-09-04T13:43:00.002-04:002011-02-15T15:17:50.636-05:00Weekend project Part ISince Hurricane Earl completely trashed my Labor Day vacation plans, I'm staying in town and organizing my fabric stash. I've spent almost every evening for the past week paring down my pattern and fabric stash. I never realized how many duplicate patterns I had. I actually had 2 of some patterns and others are just so darn similar that I couldn't justify having 5 of the same style. I also found many pieces in my fabric stash that I still love but they just aren't flattering colors on me. Trying to be good and only keep fabrics that fit <a href="http://julstech.blogspot.com/2010/04/my-colors.html">my colors</a>. I've weeded out about 25% of my patterns and almost as much fabric. If you are a pattern and fabric hoarder like me, get yourself over to <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/classifieds/readclassified.pl?ID=9239">PatternReview</a> to snatch up these goodies (I'll post the fabrics in the next few days). I'd rather sell them cheap to other addicts than sell them on eBay. <br />
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I haven't bought any fabric since February. (The <a href="http://julstech.blogspot.com/2010/08/progress-on-my-faux-chanel-jacket-aka.html">Nashville Chanel</a> fabric from June doesn't count. I was hanging with <a href="http://www.susankhalje.com/">Susan Khalje</a> and <a href="http://helenhaugheydesigns.com/">Helen Haughey</a>. I <b>HAD</b> to buy fabric!) STITCH magazine has a neat <a href="http://www.quiltingarts.com/media/p/21413.aspx">fabric stash book</a> for free download. It comes in 2 versions: 8-1/2 by 11 for binders and notecard size for storing on a ring. I love how the example fabric stash book has blank spaces. (snicker) Whose stash only has a few pieces in it?!! I also found several other great freebies: <a href="http://www.quiltingarts.com/media/p/21468.aspx">video tutorial for flat-felled seams</a> and a <a href="http://www.quiltingarts.com/media/p/21467.aspx">fabric guide for silks</a>. They also have some free ebooks and patterns. If you quilt, they have tons of freebies.<br />
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I love freebies...but not as much as I love patterns and fabrics!Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-79418116112131548892010-08-22T11:05:00.001-04:002011-02-15T15:18:21.466-05:00Distractions...projects not ChanelI estimate that I've spent 60-70 hours on my <a href="http://julstech.blogspot.com/2010/08/progress-on-my-faux-chanel-jacket-aka.html">Nashville Chanel</a> and I'm still not done. I do work slowly but this is starting to feel like a marathon...without all the sweaty runners. I need a break. I also need some tops because I've become even bustier over the last 6 months. All my RTW tops are not exactly work-appropriate anymore.<br />
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I'm distracting myself with these projects:<br />
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Vogue 8392 view A in a white stretch poplin from <a href="http://fabric.com/">Fabric.com</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4506574138/" title="V8392 front by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8392 front" height="500" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2679/4506574138_f83ca61fa8.jpg" width="352" /></a><br />
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Vogue 1197 view A in a navy colored "slubby" single knit from <a href="http://fabric.com/">Fabric.com</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4895184389/" title="V1197 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V1197" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4895184389_bf5f769c60.jpg" width="382" /></a><br />
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Butterick 5495 view C in a white "slubby" single knit<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4895165561/" title="B5495 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="B5495" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4895165561_5acb75b843.jpg" width="352" /></a><br />
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Butterick 5498 view A in the navy "slubby" single knit<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4895165637/" title="B5498 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="B5498" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4895165637_838b283a63.jpg" width="341" /></a><br />
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Butterick 5525 view C front with view A sleeves in a teal and also a turquoise "slubby" single knit<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4895761888/" title="B5525 by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="B5525" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4895761888_7238ea2f80.jpg" width="347" /></a><br />
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Butterick 5328 view A in a turquoise stretch poplin from <a href="http://fabric.com/">Fabric.com</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4506256375/" title="Butterick 5328 blouses front image by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Butterick 5328 blouses front image" height="500" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2166/4506256375_8abe37ff39.jpg" width="350" /></a><br />
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Vogue 8391 view B in the white stretch poplin<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4506296401/" title="V8391 front by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="V8391 front" height="500" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2153/4506296401_dc709bd028.jpg" width="338" /></a><br />
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Simplicity 2601 view D (pink shirt w/ cap sleeves and collar, no ruffle) in a white stretch poplin with turquoise floral embroidery from Fabric.com<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4506920162/" title="Simplicity 2601 front image by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Simplicity 2601 front image" height="432" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2328/4506920162_4639f02026.jpg" width="378" /></a><br />
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There is the possibility that DH and I will be moving to a new home in the next 6 months and I dread the idea of packing up all my fabric. I decided to sew it up in bunches and the first pile I came across was the white/blues/greens purchase from <a href="http://fabric.com/">Fabric.com</a>. The "slubby" knit wasn't at all what I thought it would be but it is very lightweight and only $1.99/yard. The knit is so lightweight and sheer that it almost feels like one of my sister's beloved <a href="http://www.jcrew.com/womens_feature/NewArrivals/teesandknits/PRDOVR~29314/29314.jsp">tissue tees from J.Crew</a>. If so, they should be super comfortable in this dreaded Memphis heat. I have some knit linings from <a href="http://www.lucysfabrics.com/store/">Lucy Fabrics</a> (before she stopped selling fabric). I was planning to make some camis to wear under my blouses. The above projects and the camis would account for 28 yards...not even a drop in the bucket. Sigh. To further complicate things, my classes start up again on Monday. I'm taking twice as many credits this semester so I can graduate in December. Hmmm, might be packing up all that fabric after all. <b>Ladies, don't stash fabric!!</b> I store mine in these <a href="http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=17038184&RN=303&">6-shelf sweater organizers</a>. One was so heavy it tore away from the hanger and fell on me yesterday. It was like wrestling with a 100-pound snake! I nearly threw out my back trying to stack it up against the wall. Who says sewing isn't dangerous?Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-1537059920820106512010-08-17T16:50:00.001-04:002011-02-15T15:20:12.109-05:00How many types of sewing machine needles are there???I used to buy the Dritz Universal needles and use them for sewing any type of fabric. But that was before I discovered my love of silks and knits. Then I bought Dritz ballpoint needles. Great for knits but I was still looking for something more appropriate for my silks. Then I bought Schmetz Microtex. Perfect! But why are they so much more expensive than Dritz? Now I found Organ and Klasse needles online. And now I'm confused. <br />
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I understand that certain fabrics need certain types of needles. You should also buy needles based on the weight of the fabric. Got that too but what's with all the different brands of needles? Is any one really better than the other? I have Singer sewing machines. I know I don't need to buy the Singer branded needles but I don't know that the Schmetz I've been buying are any better than the Dritz. The Schmetz packaging is certainly nicer than the Dritz and more expensive...so they are better, right? Ugh....<br />
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I've searched high and low and it seems like it's a matter of what will work on your machine and what you like better. There doesn't seem to be a clear consensus except that Organ is cheaper with good quality, Schmetz is more expensive but easier to find, and everything else is a toss up. For instance, I still have a few Singer branded needles that came with my CG-590. The "denim" needle supplied with the machine works well and fits perfectly. The Schmetz "denim" needle won't even fit into the needle clamp...but it fits my Singer Esteem just fine and works great. So I guess you are just S.O.L. if you buy a needle that <em>should</em> fit and doesn't. <br />
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If anyone wants to sound off on this, please do because I'm lost. In the meantime, I guess I'll stick to my plan to buy Schmetz when they are 50% off at Hancock's and JoAnn's or buy Organ/Schmetz in bulk online. Why not buy the Dritz? The packaging just isn't as pretty. Weird, I know.<br />
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During my internet search, I did find several good references about sewing machine needles and even some good sources for bulk supplies. Enjoy!<br />
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<ul><li>For the history buffs...<a href="http://www.moah.org/exhibits/virtual/sewing.html">History of the Sewing Machine</a> at the Museum of American Heritage</li>
<li>Threads magazine articles: <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3752/sewing-machine-needles-an-overview">Sewing Machine Needles--An Overview</a> and <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3751/machine-needle-know-how">Machine-Needle Know-How</a></li>
<li>Every possible Schmetz needle described: <a href="http://www.schmetzneedles.com/pdf/ABC_Brochure.pdf">Schmetz ABC Pocket Guide</a></li>
<li>Description of Organ needle types by Diamond Needle Corp: <a href="http://www.diamondneedle.com/pdf/FSN-05%20LARGEnew.pdf">Organ Needles</a></li>
<li>Stores selling needles in bulk (in no particular order):</li>
<ul><li><a href="http://www.allbrands.com/products/abc0126.html">AllBrands.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.schmetzneedles.com/category/Main-Shop-1">Schmetz</a> (more expensive but better selection)</li>
<li><a href="http://www.discountembroiderysupply.com/Home-Machine-(Flat-Shank)">Discount Embroidery Supply</a> (can order less than 100 of each type)</li>
<li><a href="http://www.ctsusa.com/_e/gdept/13/All_Sewing_Machine_Needles.htm">CTS USA</a></li>
<li><a href="http://store.atlantathread.com/needles1.html">Atlanta Thread & Supply Company</a></li>
</ul></ul>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-20550126547761323372010-08-16T22:35:00.002-04:002011-02-15T15:28:20.100-05:00Book Review: Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4516402134/" title="Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4516402134_89f6a7280f.jpg" width="384" /></a><br />
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Power Sewing Step by Step by Sandra Betzina<br />
Published in 2000, 232 pages, hardback<br />
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The chapter headings are by garment type: jacket, vest, skirt, pants, dress, etc.<br />
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There are quite a few pictures for each technique and a thorough explanation of the technique. If you can get past the outdated garments, you will find some great sewing techniques. Sandra credits Margaret Islander for several of the techniques described in the book. I actually liked those techniques the least. It makes me wonder if I would like any of the Margaret Islander techniques. My initial impression is that the Islander sewing techniques are geared towards fast results, not fine sewing. I used to be all for fast results but after Susan Khalje's couture sewing class, I have a real appreciation for the sometimes time-consuming couture sewing techniques. The results are just better in my opinion. But I digress.... I enjoyed many of the sewing techniques presented by Sandra Betzina.<br />
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Here are a few of my favorites:<br />
<ol><li>Eliminating seams</li>
<li>Armhole gaposis fix (use crowding, pulling the bobbin thread, or apply fusible twill tape)</li>
<li>Lining vests/jackets/etc. without fashion fabric curling up (so the lining is exposed)</li>
<li>Many examples of cutting on the bias to fix certain problems with draping, fit, or edges curling</li>
<li>How to work with the feed dogs (keeps edges matched, easing, etc.)</li>
<li>Blocked shaping of pants legs</li>
<li>Underlining pants for a wrinkle-free look</li>
<li>Add extra fabric for a protruding tummy (ease into the waistband)</li>
<li>Why front & back inner leg seams are different lengths (pants will cup the booty nicer)</li>
<li>Zipper in a pants/skirt pocket</li>
<li>Petersham waist facing</li>
<li>Tailored waistband with elasticized back</li>
<li>Flat-fell seams on pants with in-seam pockets</li>
<li>Fixing the hip pocket on pants so they don't gape</li>
<li>Finding the most flattering grainline for your fabric and garment style (it's not always what the pattern suggests)</li>
<li>Faced hems</li>
<li>Add center front length and side seam width at bust only for better bust fit in knit tops</li>
<li>Stabilizing the neck in knit tops</li>
<li>Better shaped V-necklines</li>
<li>Adjusting the sleeve cap ease</li>
<li>Contoured shoulder pads</li>
<li>Accurate spacing of continuous button loops</li>
<li>Cornering with a twin needle</li>
<li>Block fusing to keep fused facings and fashion fabric the same length</li>
<li>Establishing roll-line memory in lapels or collars</li>
<li>Weighted hems</li>
</ol>Sandra gives you charts for determining ease or adjustments in tops for various cup sizes. She has several great suggestions for making tops that fit better, now matter what your bust size is. Most of her interfacing recommendations are for Pellon products found easily in any Hancock's or JoAnn's fabric store. The resources section is very brief and somewhat outdated. For each garment category, the chapter starts with an outline of all the steps for constructing that garment. You'll never depend on the pattern instruction sheet again.<br />
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I definitely recommend this book. When I first flipped through it, I didn't think the book was worth keeping. I think I let the outdated garments turn me off. Look closer. There are many gems to be found here.Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-131173276367101474.post-31912168266117127452010-08-14T21:11:00.001-04:002011-02-15T15:28:39.603-05:00Wookie<b>BEFORE</b><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4892556116/" title="Wookie by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Wookie" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4892556116_cefca835d8.jpg" width="204" /></a><br />
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<b>AFTER</b><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/julies_adventures_in_sewing/4891951979/" title="Chanel fall 2010 RTW by Julie's sewing, on Flickr"><img alt="Chanel fall 2010 RTW" height="480" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4891951979_6f6f36a8fc.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
(Chanel Fall 2010 RTW)<br />
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Have a nice weekend!Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15283318998385718706noreply@blogger.com2