Threads Magazine is publishing a sewing book

You had to know this was coming...Threads editors are publishing a comprehensive sewing book.  It isn't just clippings from the past 20 years of Threads magazine either.  I was doubtful this book would be worth purchasing since a) I have so many books, and b) every comprehensive sewing book out there claims to have everything in it and they never do.  First off, this book already appears to have some nice diagrams and explanations of concepts that other books usually gloss over.  At this point in my sewing, I don't need those details because I've already figured it out but they would have been helpful 5 years ago.

There is a nice preview (meaning you can look at tons of the pages instead of just 5 pages) on the Taunton website.  After skimming the preview, I am intrigued but the section on threads is basic and inadequate as in most books.  The zippers chapter is much better than others; lots of photos of each type of zipper and an actual comparison of metal vs plastic vs coil teeth.  I've only seen one other author cover that in a book (Making Trousers for Men & Women by David Page Coffin).  There is an interesting section that describes measuring yourself to estimate how much yardage you need for a particular garment; nice idea for those that work without patterns or have no specific pattern in mind for a must-have fabric.

One gripe...all skinny, young models.  Where are all the REAL women?  If you need a model with wide hips, a large, round booty, and a stomach pooch, call me.  I'll show my crazy curves in exchange for a free copy of the book (and a lifetime subscription to Threads).

For more details on the book, check the Taunton website.  I'm on the fence about this one.  I'd like to see it in a bookstore first.  You know, sit down and basically skim every page in the book before I commit to buying it.  So as you are walking through Barnes & Noble, please don't trip on me.  I'll be the lumpy, curvy chick sitting on the floor because all the skinny, coffee drinkers took the chairs.

Threads Sewing Guide, available April 4, 2011

• Dimensions 9 3/16 x 10 7/8
• Pages 392
• Photos 1010
• Drawings 229

Book Review: Customize Your Sewing Patterns for a Perfect Fit by Mary Morris & Sally McCann

Paperback, 144 pages
Published in 2002
ISBN: 9781579903244
Suggested retail price $14.95 USD, OOP, available used on Amazon

This book is written by two of the G Street Fabrics sewing instructors.  Initially I was really excited about this book but when I tried to apply the techniques, I made a huge mess of my project.  I think you need to determine how your mind works, how your creative process works best in order to pick a fitting technique that will work for you.  This book relies on measurements and calculating widths to add and subtract from the pattern pieces before you make a muslin.  I figured this was right up my alley because I've always been great at math.  Problem is that math doesn't fit into my creative process very well.  I'm a fan of the pinch a little, tuck a little method.  Muslins allowed me to do that.  If you feel more comfortable fitting by measurement, then this is the book for you.  If you prefer to pinch, tuck and pull, then get Palmer/Pletsch's Fit for Real People.  I also feel like Fit for Real People addresses more fitting issues than this book.  Another great source for people who like to use a little of each fitting method is the Fitting & Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration by Liechty, Rashband, and Pottberg-Steineckert.

For the time being, I'm going to shelve this book.  I may find a use for it in the future.

Book/Chapter Headings:
1.  Getting Started
Basic introduction with a glossary and explanation of alteration methods, including the slash-and-pivot, wedge-slash-and-pivot, the L-slash, and the Box methods.


2.  Understanding and Comparing Fitting Patterns
Explains how to determine pattern size, particularly when you would use your bust vs. high bust measurements.  There is a really nice chart of all the major pattern companies and the differences in sizes for their basic bodice, sleeve, and skirt patterns.  I've seen variations of these charts before but this is the most comprehensive I've ever seen.  The pants pattern comparison and an additional lower body measurement chart are in the chapter about pants fitting.  

3.  Taking Your Measurements and Preparing the Fitting Pattern
A few nice pictures of where you should measure yourself but the best part of this chapter is the detailed measuring chart and instructions.  More pictures would make this chapter gold.  There are also a few line drawings demonstrating exactly where to measure a pattern piece to compare to your own measurements.

4.  Fitting Problems and Solutions
Lots of pictures of REAL women wearing poorly and properly fitting clothes.  Helpful but I think the Palmer/Pletsch's Fit for Real People covers this better and with many more pictures.

5.  Fitting the Bodice
The authors recommend doing the bust adjustment first, and saving the shoulder, front chest and upper back adjustments for a tissue fit.  I suppose this could work if you have the side seams and shoulder seams in perfect position before starting.  Personally, I find that if I fix my shoulders and upper back first, the bust alteration is either not needed or not as extreme.  Good illustrations of the concepts explained.  There is a detailed explanation of a tissue fit as well.  Again, I prefer Palmer/Pletsch's Fit for Real People because there are many more pictures and they are in color which helps highlight wrinkles in the tissues, etc.  Like I said earlier, this section was a nightmare for me.  After many measurements, slashes, and pivots, I had destroyed my pattern and was no closer to a nice fitting bodice.  At this point, I simply skimmed the rest of the book and then shelved it.  I haven't referred to it since.
 
The remaining chapters follow the same pattern as the above chapter: explanation of which adjustments to make first, what qualifies as a major or minor adjustment, diagrams to demonstrate whatever alteration method is recommended, and a couple pictures of the final muslin.
6.  Fitting the Sleeve
7.  Fitting the Skirt
8.  Fitting Pants

9.  Preserving and Using Your Personal Fitting Patterns
There is a nice figure showing you what a dolman  vs raglan sleeve is, basque waist, princess seam, etc.  The figure is very basic and leaves out quite a bit but this would be a good starting place for a beginner.  This chapter also uses line drawings to demonstrate how you use your fitting pattern to make adjustments to your fashion patterns.

10.Using Your Personal Fitting Patterns as a Design Tool
This is a very basic attempt to show you that you can use your fitting pattern to design your own garment.  I think the following 2 books do a much better job:  Make Your Own Patterns by Rene Bergh and How to Make Sewing Patterns by Donald McCunn.

11.Next Steps and New Directions
Appendix: Finding a Fitting Buddy
Annotated Bibliography

At this time, I don't think I would recommend this book to others.  I have other books in my collection that cover fitting topics more comprehensively than this book.

Stitching but not sewing

I've been crocheting like mad.  At least I'm stitching something.

I got the brainy idea to make birthday presents for my sister and mother.  Something has possessed me because I also wanted to make booties for my newest nephew.

These little booties were a lot harder to make than you would think.  I still need to re-stitch the laces (too short) and make a second "star" for the right shoe.



I made these long wrist warmers for myself while trying to use up some really old acrylic yarn in my stash.  The pattern is from Naturally Caron and it's called Memphis Fingerless Gloves.  I made a ton of mistakes on one glove but I'm still pretty happy with them.





My sister loved them so I'm planning a pair for her.  I'm also making a few other things for her but I can't go into detail now because occasionally she reads my blog.

Even though I still have several crochet projects planned, it is time to hit the sewing machine.  I bought several pairs of pants from Eddie Bauer about a month ago.  I haven't worn them because I haven't hemmed them.  (Lazy, I know.)  Well, the only 3 properly hemmed pants I own have officially shrunk from so much washing and drying.  If I don't hem my newly acquired pants soon, I may be going pants-less!  In Memphis, no one would probably bat an eye but I'd rather cover myself nonetheless.

Have a great weekend!

Spring 2011 patterns!!

I've shown incredible restraint with the new patterns being released but with the release of Vogue patterns, I cannot control myself anymore.  Simplicity and McCall's had some cute patterns but not much that I just HAD to have.  When I received my Vogue patterns magazine 2 weeks ago, I got a glimpse of the new spring patterns and I've been stalking the Vogue website and all the Hancock's and JoAnn Fabric stores in town.  WHEN WILL VOGUE PATTERNS BE IN THE STORES?!!!! 

So here are my picks from Simplicity, McCall's and Vogue.  I'm not going to post all the Vogue patterns that everyone else is drooling over.  I only liked a few of them anyway but I did see some real gems in the rest of the line-up.

McCall's did have several cute patterns but most looked like patterns I already own.  The latest Palmer & Pletsch is worth picking up though.

McCall's 6282



Despite the cute factor in all of the Cynthia Rowley designs, I don't see myself wearing any of them, except for #2857.  There were many cute patterns in the Simplicity Spring 2011 release but these are the only ones I bought.

Simplicity 2248 (try this link for a better view)
I love the slimming effect of the midsection and the sleeve options.





Simplicity 2256 (better view)
I can't help it.  I like the ruffled collar.  I admit that with the wrong fabric, this jacket could go from cute and sassy to clown-ish.



Simplicity 2261 (better view)
I actually bought this one for the tee with pleated trim at the neck/shoulders.





My less popular Vogue picks are all very wearable and (hopefully) won't languish in my pattern drawer for years.

Vogue 8715
I love View B.  The simple lines with the fullness in back.





Vogue 8718
I'm still on the fence about the jacket.  The sleeves are great but the fullness of the peplum front may make my hips look even bigger.  The lines of the shirt and dress are nice.





Vogue 8721
Another great Elizabeth Gillet design for shrugs and other eveningwear accessories.  The deep silver/gray button-front jacket is gorgeous.



Vogue 8710
Even DH loves the striped long-sleeve top.  I'm not a fan of the big sleeves on the short sleeve tops.



Vogue 8712
I would never wear these pants to work but the pull-on pants could be great for loungewear or even exercising.  I'm weird.  I don't like wearing shorts to exercise.  I prefer capri length or long pants.



 

Vogue 8714
Definitely wear the jacket open.  Just lovely.



Vogue 8722
I just might try to make some belts too!



I need more patterns like I need a broken-down car.  I tried to curb this obsession but bottom line...they're cheap, they don't take up much space (at least they didn't until I bought hundreds of them), and I WANT them.  Do you watch Hoarders on A&E?  They need to start a reality show about people who craft.  Come into our homes and find all our stashes of fabric, notions, patterns, books, yarn, etc.  Our houses won't be messy.  After all, messiness stifles creativity.  But the sheer volume of stuff could be funny, embarassing, and a tad sad...just what reality TV is all about.  Darn it.  Now I need to find something to get rid of so I can make space for new patterns.

I have a blog?!!!

I admit it.  I gave up on the blog last fall because I was overwhelmed with school and had no sewing to blog about.  Who wants to read about endless sewing ideas that never come to fruition?  I've been sewing vicariously through all my internet sewing friends.  Y'all have been quite productive and creative.  Kudos to you!!

2011 is all about new things for me.  New town, new job, new free time, new hobbies, new sewing knowledge, new sewing confidence...

I've struggled a lot over the last year with managing my time, maintaining my focus on my sewing tasks, and finding inspiration and confidence in my sewing abilities.  How will I address this?  I'm not going to make up a list of sewing resolutions.  I did that last year and I failed miserably.  I'm going back to the beginning.  I have several comprehensive sewing books designed to teach someone how to sew.  My favorites are the Singer Complete Photo Guide to Sewing and the Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing.  Each thoroughly explains the techniques and the Reader's Digest book lays out projects for you to practice the techniques.  I'm going back to Sewing 101 to get back into the swing of sewing, develop some confidence and focus on my sewing...and to finally start chipping away at the fabric mountain that has been growing in my closet.

Over the holidays I picked up an old hobby again.  (What?!  She can't even manage the one hobby this blog is about.  Now she has 2 hobbies!!--Yes, now I have 2 hobbies, soon to be 3.  Sometimes you just need to be crafty and don't want to be limited to one craft.)  I figured it would be easier to bring plastic crochet hooks and yarn on the plane than scissors, pins, needles, seam ripper, fabric and thread.  The TSA is funny about sharp metal objects. 

I crocheted a pair of long fingerless gloves during my holiday break (pictures coming soon).  They are chock full of mistakes but I still love them.  My sister has even asked for a pair for her birthday.  I'm also crocheting baby Converse sneakers for my nephew.  My third hobby will be knitting.  I knitted one scarf many years ago.  My stitches were so tight that the scarf rolled up and would never lie flat.  I referred to it as the "noodle" over the years.  I've since retired the "noodle" but still have a desire to learn how to knit beautiful sweaters to go with my sewn wardrobe.

Crocheting and knitting means joining the Ravelry crowd.  LOVE that site!  I wish sewers had a great site like that so we could easily catalog our books/patterns/fabrics.  Ravelry is also where I found the best, most authentic-looking pattern for baby Converse sneakers. (When I find the pattern link again, I'll post it with credit for the author.)

So that is the update from my little corner of the web.  Best wishes for a great year for all of you!!
--Julie