Saturday, May 29, 2010

Fabrics for Nancy's dress

I think I'm so indecisive about this dress because it's the first time I've made anything for someone else.  I'm starting to doubt my choices.  Let me back up to 2 weeks ago when I started getting all the fabric samples.

Just a reminder...this is the dress,

Pattern front

with this neckline (pleated partial collar with lace trim fully outlining the V-neck),

V neck version

and these are the suggested fabrics.

Pattern notions

Nancy wants a blue dress, originally all solid, until I found some pics of great striped polonaises.  I called several stores, including the store in Nashville where Susan Khalje will take us shopping (did I mention I'm taking a sewing vacation this summer?  Susan Khalje's week-long couture sewing session!!!).  I asked specifically for lightweight cottons and silks (gave them a list of fabrics) in blue, suitable for a polonaise, "fine" fabrics, preferably 57-60 inches wide, no more than $17/yard, in solids or wide stripes and NOT shirting fabrics.

My first batch of samples came from Textile Fabrics in Nashville, where we will take our shopping trip for the class.  Let me just say this process was extremely easy, the samples were generous in size and quantity with enough fabric and price information, they were thoughtful in their selections, fast turnaround and best of all, the samples were FREE.  The store also carries the Buckaroo Bobbins pattern line so I could tell them exactly which pattern I was using.  This is what they sent me.

Textile Fabrics

Several of the samples are overlapping but from top to bottom they are:
  1. Light blue cotton lawn, 45", $15.98/yard
  2. Light blue satin batiste, 45", $18.98/yard
  3. Light blue cotton batiste, 45", $18.98/yard (this one is kinda folded over the first dark sample)
  4. Black-navy swiss dot cotton, 57", $18.98/yard
  5. Navy silk satin chiffon, 45", $18.98/yard
  6. Royal bluish China silk, 45", $12.98/yard
  7. Light blue silk/cotton satin, 45", $19.98/yard
  8. Royal blue rayon gaberdine, 57", $26.98/yard
  9. Navy rayon gaberdine, 57", $26.98/yard
That's right, folks. They sent me nine samples, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches wide by 8 inches long, for FREE.  Several fabrics weren't right for Nancy's dress (#5 chiffon--wrong material and #1-3 are so light colored that they are too sheer).  Nancy and I vetoed #7 (the blue is too light on her), #4 (black-navy is also not a good color on her), and #8-9 (too expensive).  #6 china silk is the only viable option but at 45 inches wide, we would need 13+ yards.  Nancy's budget is $300 for fabric and notions.  It's probably doable but I might have to go cheaper on the lace trim.  Anyway, the #6 royal blue china silk is an option.

Seeing and feeling these fabrics from Textile Fabrics has me worried that the $600 I had saved for some personal shopping won't be enough.  Most of these samples were simply beautiful.  I'm loving the rayon gaberdines in particular.  I've GOT to have them!  So I head over to their website to grab the link to include in this post and what do I see?  A month-long sale!!!

Shop the Early Bird Sale June 1st - 26th!
All fabric is 50% off and all remnants are 75% off.

Are you kidding me?!!!  I will have to find a shopping buddy with incredible self-restraint or I'm doomed.  I just spoke with one of the staff and she giggled at my excitement.  They must do this every summer.  If you are shopping in Textile Fabrics in June and a short brunette grabs fabric from your hands, please forgive her.  She doesn't have access to good fabric so this shopping excursion has brought out the worst in her.

Next up is Banksville Designer Fabrics.  They have a sample club of $10 for 36 samples.  I've read several reviews that indicated the best way to order samples is by phone and that the samples are free in the future if you buy from them every so often.  Anyway, I paid for the sample club online with PayPal.  Never received a confirmation so after a few days I called them to place an order.  The rep was a little short with me, like she was super busy, but she stated she knew exactly what I needed and wouldn't send any shirting materials.  Everyone else raves about this store so I was hopeful.  This is what they sent:

Banksville

Your eyes do not deceive you.  There are striped shirting fabrics included in this packet that I paid for.  The samples are generous in size, at least 2 inches wide by 10 or more inches long.  From top to bottom, this is what they sent:
  1. Blue "cotton" (no other description), 56", $7.99/yard
  2. Another blue cotton, 56", $7.99/yard
  3. Royal blue cotton, 56", $7.99/yard
  4. Darker royal blue, almost navy silk caddy, 45", $22.99/yard
  5. Jewel tone turquoise-like silk charmeuse, 45", $16.99/yard
  6. "Silk" white with light blue stripes, 54", $22.99/yard (this one looks like lining material)
  7. White multi-colored striped cotton , 60", $12.99/yard (linen-look)
  8. Medium blue with stripes cotton (aka shirting), 60", $8.99/yard
  9. Light blue with dark blue stripes cotton (another shirting), 60", $8.99/yard
I'm annoyed.  No other way to describe it.  They wasted one-quarter of my sample allowance on stuff that both the rep and I agreed I couldn't use.  #1 and #2 are not high-quality cottons.  #3 is better but still not high-quality.  #4 is too heavy to wear 13 yards worth, feels like polyester, and is way above my price range.  #5 is beautiful, wouldn't mind having some for myself but the color is wrong for Nancy and too much sheen.  #6 is a joke.  It's lining material at best and so incredibly sheer.  #7 is linen-look for a summer dress.  #8 and #9 just piss me off.  I specifically said "no shirtings" and then the rep said all the striped blue fabrics they had were probably shirtings so I said "don't send them."  The only samples that they should have sent were #5 and #3.  I can see throwing #4 into the mix if you are desperate but none of these other samples should have been included.

My initial impressions of Banksville aren't good but I will probably request other samples because (1) I paid for them, and (2) everyone else raves about this place.  I'll probably request wool coatings, suitings, and boucles in the future...way off future.

Next up is Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics.  I requested my samples via email, had a personal email response from the owner by the end of the day and a phone call from the rep filling my request before the owner even had a chance to respond.  Very quick response but not much to offer.  Granted my project is pretty specific but they were honest about what limited choices they had to offer me.  We agreed upon 3 free samples of solid blue silks.

Stonemountain

I tried to blow these up to help you see them better but the fact of the matter is they are only 1/2-inch wide by 10 inches long.  By the time I spoke with Stonemountain & Daughter, my request had become more specific to include "no baby blues or black-navy."
  1. Teal silk jacquard, 36", $15.00/yard
  2. Steel blue silk dupioni, 44", $14.00/yard
  3. Teal/burnt red silk dupioni, 44", $14.00/yard
I hate silk dupioni.  Don't ask why.  I just don't like it.  The silk jacquard would be nice for a Vogue pattern I have but not for Nancy's dress.  All 3 samples have too much body to work for this dress.  Oh well.  I'd give them another try though because they were very nice.  Plus I've never found a fabric I like for Vogue 1026 so I might just have to order this silk jacquard.

At this point, I was losing hope that I would find a nice blue stripe for Nancy's polonaise so I decided to focus on solids.  I went back to A Frayed Knot and bought several 1/8-yard pieces of fabrics I liked. Option #1 is light blue with white stripe cotton jacquard, 60", $12.00/yard.  I pictured this as the bodice/bustle portion and a coordinating navy for the skirt.  The white stripes have a slight sheen to them and it's just lovely in person. 

Blue & white stripe

Option #2 is a royal blue with purple sheen cotton "Lavinia" dobby, 60", $10.50/yard.  I would use this for the entire dress.  The purple sheen is lost in this picture but Nancy and I thought it was cool.

Blue purple cotton dobby

Option #3 is a blue floral cotton, 60", $13.50/yard for the bodice/bustle and a darker blue with lighter blue undertones for the skirt, 60", $12.50/yard.  Nancy hated the floral and wasn't fond of the solid blue either.

Floral print and coordinating skirt

Nancy and I agreed on option #1.  Without a sheen in the white stripes, this fabric probably could have passed for a shirting but the sheen dresses it up.  I'm also looking forward to playing with the stripes directionally on the sleeves and upper skirt edges.  I went ahead and bought the 4-1/2 yards for the bodice/bustle.  If Susan Khalje looks at it and disagrees with our plan, Textile Fabrics might still have some fabrics for me to try (and at half price!).  I can just use the yardage I've already bought for a blouse and some yummy-feeling pajamas.  I haven't found a suitable navy to coordinate with so Helen Haughey is looking for me.  She's coming to the class and bringing some fabrics with her. 

Gotta tell you...I'm exhausted.  From finding samples, discussing with Nancy, and then my own deliberations about what would really work, I'm freakin' tired.  I haven't even told you about my exhaustive search for buttons and laces yet.  I'll save that for another post.  Nancy's fitting is on Tuesday so I need to finish cutting out the muslin. 

Enjoy your Memorial Day weekend and don't forget to thank soldiers, both past and present, for their service to our country.  Trust me, they appreciate hearing it.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Sewing articles, links and tutorials

Terminology
Glossary of Fashion & Fabric Terms at Kohls
Glossary of Fabric Terms at Kwik Sew
Glossary of Sewing Terms at Kwik Sew
Glossary of Sewing Machine Terms at Kwik Sew

Sewing Organizations
Association of Sewing and Design Professionals

Sewing Machine Maintenance & Repair
Checklist of Common Machine Troubles at New Mexico State Univ. Cooperative Extension Service
Sewing Machine Maintenance at New Mexico State Univ. Cooperative Extension Service
YouTube videos by robgolmsted:
Sewing Accessories & Notions
Hand Sewing Needle Guide 22.110 at Sewing & Craft Alliance
Foot Fetish in Australian Stitches (presser feet article)
Sewing Machine Needle Charts 22.115 at Sewing & Craft Alliance
Singer Presser Feet
   
Magazines
Australian Stitches
Sew News
SewStylish
Threads

Workshops
Academy of Fine Sewing and Design with Kathryn Brenne in Canada
Alterations for Professionals with Linda Stewart
Bra Making with Anne St. Clair of Needle Nook Fabrics
Fashion Design classes with Sarah Veblen in Maryland
Fashion Education Group with CG Garment Designs in Vermont
Couture Sewing School with Susan Khalje
Palmer/Pletsch workshops in Oregon
Sit and Sew with Kenneth King and Susan Khalje

Free Patterns and Tutorials
Purses & Totes
DIY Bag Lover

Vintage
The Costumer's Manifesto (design, pattern drafting, supplies, etc.)
Sense & Sensibility (books, patterns, many links for costume research, other patterns and fabrics)
Vintage Sewing (online books, dressmaking, sewing, pattern design, glovemaking, millinery)
Vintage Victorian (1880's-1900's day and evening fashion)

Fabrics
Working with:
Border Prints by UK Clothing & Textiles
Embellished Fabrics Part I and Part II by Susan Khalje at Threads
Interfacing by UK Clothing & Textiles
Plaids by UK Clothing & Textiles
Sheer Fabrics by UK Clothing & Textiles
Sheer Success in Australian Stitches (sewing sheer fabrics)
Slippery Fabrics by Candlelight Valley Fabrics
Soft Fluid Fabrics by UK Clothing & Textiles
Stripes by UK Clothing & Textiles

Fabric Types:
Selecting Interfacings, Underlinings and Linings (chart for fabric types) at New Mexico State Univ. Cooperative Extension Service
Sewing Guides by Shannon Gifford at Emma One Sock (history, pretreatment, suggested needles & thread, sewing instructions, interfacing suggestions and suggested fabric uses for TONS of fabrics)

Cashmere by Candlelight Valley Fabrics
Fleece by UK Clothing & Textiles
Knits by UK Clothing & Textiles
Linen by Candlelight Valley Fabrics
Velvet (stretch) by Candlelight Valley Fabrics
Wool Gabardine by Candlelight Valley Fabrics

Fabric Care
Pressing Pointers at New Mexico State Univ. Cooperative Extension Service
Pressing Techniques by UK Clothing & Textiles
Ohio State University OhioLine has the following articles:
Hand washing Wool by Candlelight Valley Fabrics
Stain Index from A to Z by MU Extension
Steam Pressing Dry Clean Only Fabrics by Candlelight Valley Fabrics
Quick Stain Removal Guide at Texas A&M Cooperative Extension

Sewing Techniques
Buttons & Buttonholes
Bound Buttonhole by UK Clothing & Textiles
Buttons & Buttonholes by UK Clothing & Textiles
Machine Buttonholes Made Easy at New Mexico State Univ. Cooperative Extension Service
Machined Buttonholes in Australian Stitches

Collars & Lapels
Collars by UK Clothing & Textiles
Lapels Made Easy by UK Clothing & Textiles

Fitting & Alterations
Measuring and Basic Pattern Alterations by Kwik Sew (instructions for measuring yourself, measuring pattern pieces, incorporating ease into measurements, and how to do basic pattern alterations)
Pattern Alterations at Texas A&M Cooperative Extension (all kinds of fitting issues)
Simple Pattern Innovations 18.230 at Sewing & Craft Alliance (eliminating & adding seams)

Hand Sewing
Diagonal and Slip Basting 15.240 at Sewing & Craft Alliance
Hand Stitches by UK Clothing & Textiles
Hand Stitches 22.140 at Sewing & Craft Alliance
Otis College of Art and Design YouTube videos:
Stitching Techniques for the Tailored Jacket (waxing the thread, basting, tailor tacks, diagonal basting, thread tracing, prick stitching, catchstitch, padstitch)


Linings
Jacket & Coat Linings Made Easy by UK Clothing & Textiles
Jacket Linings in Australian Stitches
Selecting & Using Supportive Fabrics by UK Clothing & Textiles
Skirt Linings by UK Clothing & Textiles

Pockets
Hip Pocket in Australian Stitches (pants back pocket)
Jetted Pockets in Australian Stitches
Patch Pockets by UK Clothing & Textiles
Patch Pockets Part I (18.210) and Part II (18.211) at Sewing & Craft Alliance
Slot Pockets by UK Clothing & Textiles
Welt Pockets (standing) by UK Clothing & Textiles
Welt Pocket with Flap by UK Clothing & Textiles
Winning Welts in Australian Stitches

Seams, Hems & Finishing Edges
Bobbinwork 17.225 at Sewing & Craft Alliance
Blindhem machine stitch 16.120 at Sewing & Craft Alliance (includes advanced techniques)
Darts, Ease, Gathers, Pleats, Shirring & Tucks by UK Clothing & Textiles
Facings by UK Clothing & Textiles
Hems by UK Clothing & Textiles
Hems at New Mexico State Univ. Cooperative Extension Service
Quitting Clipping! (alternative to trimming seam allowances to reduce bulk) in Australian Stitches
Machine Blind Hem in Australian Stitches
Pebble Piping (decorative binding) in Australian Stitches
Pintucking 17.222 at Sewing & Craft Alliance
Seams & Seam Finishes by UK Clothing & Textiles
Splitting Seams (reducing bulk) in Australian Stitches
Weighted Hems 12.360 at Sewing & Craft Alliance

Sleeves
Continuous Lap Sleeve Placket 12.340 at Sewing & Craft Alliance
Sewing Sleeves (types of sleeves, methods for sewing all types) at New Mexico State Univ. Cooperative Extension Service
Sleeve Plackets & Bands at New Mexico State Univ. Cooperative Extension Service
Sleeve Savvy by UK Clothing & Textiles (types of sleeves, methods for sewing all types)

Swimwear
Sewing Swimwear by Kwik Sew

Tailoring
Jacket Making part I and part II in Australian Stitches
Mens Trouser Finishing Touches in Australian Stitches
Tailoring jackets by UK Clothing & Textiles
Blissful Bonding (interfacing basics) in Australian Stitches

Waistbands
Waistline Stay by UK Clothing & Textiles
Waistline Treatments by UK Clothing & Textiles

Zippers
Hand Zipper Application by UK Clothing & Textiles
Insert Zipper with Bag Pocket by UK Clothing & Textiles
Trouser Fly in Australian Stitches
Zippers by UK Clothing & Textiles
Zippers Made Easy at New Mexico State Univ. Cooperative Extension Service

Monday, May 17, 2010

Lucy's Fabrics Close-out sale

Don't worry.  Lucy's Fabrics isn't going out of business but she is getting rid of her fabrics and will just sell trims in the future.  It's a shame because I like her linings and have bought several nice knits from her in the past.  Click here for details of what's on sale.  Bonus:  Save 30% off a fabric order of $100+ and as always, free shipping on orders over $75.

Monday, May 3, 2010

Favorite Shops for Fabrics & Supplies

A little more blog clean-up....

Threads Magazine Online Shopping and Resource Guide

Trims
Allbrands.com has lace trims
CheepTrims.com
M & J Trimmings
Simplicity
Sew Sassy has lingerie & bra items

Accessories/Notions
Allbrands.com has Schmetz needles (100 ct) and Presser Feet
B. Black & Son has fine hand sewing needles, tailoring supplies, basting thread, pressing aids, pattern paper & basic buttons
Button Drawer unfortunately has a limited return policy but huge selection
Fashion Patterns by Coni has patternmaking books/DVDs and supplies
Greenberg & Hammer has wax-free tracing paper, hard-to-find needles, interfacings & closures
Sew Sassy has lingerie & bra items

Interfacing
B. Black & Son has hymo and 60" interfacings
Fabric Depot has PerfectFuse interfacings
Fashion Sewing Supply

Books & DVDs
BookCloseouts.com
Bramcost Publications has vintage sewing books


Vintage
Wearing History has reproduction vintage patterns
EvaDress has patterns from 1800's to 1950's
Vintage Fashion Library has patterns (1880's to 1970's) and books
Vintage Pattern Lending Library has patterns from 1860's to 1980's
Vintage Sewing Patterns Directory is not a store but a list of stores selling vintage patterns
Bramcost Publications has vintage sewing/fashion books
Vintage Victorian has vintage fashion books

FABRICS
Emma One Sock
Fabric.com
Fabric Mart
Fabrications (good selection of basics: cottons, silks, denim, wools and knits; also eco-friendly wool wash)
Gorgeous Fabrics
Mood Designer Fabrics
ThunderLily has great cotton prints, silks and wool fabrics
Vogue Fabrics
Waechter's Fine Fabrics

Knits
Bamboo Fabric Store
Sew Baby has cotton terry, jersey, and sweatshirt fleece 

Sew Sassy
Spandex House has any fabric with stretch, including moisture-wicking

Trim Fabric has double knits and jerseys
Wazoodle has sweatshirt fleece and Bamboo knits

Wools
B. Black & Sons (many types & cashmere too)
Dollar Fabric has wool crepe

Fabrics.net
Michael's Fabrics (wool blends)

Cottons
5BucksaYard.com has quilting cottons
AK Fabrics has stretch polished cottons 
Allbrands.com has Fabric Finders and Bearissima Swiss Batiste
Atlantis Fabrics has seersuckers, organic cottons, madras and patchwork madras
Contemporary Cloth has cheap high quality quilter's cottons
Fabrics on Mill Street has limited selection of high quality basics and prints
GotFabric.com has Hawaiian prints
International Fabric Collection has sateens
Michael's Fabrics has high quality cottons 
Sew Baby has nice quilter's wovens
 

Silks
Delectable Mountain Cloth also offers sample packs

Fabrics.net
Fabrics on Mill Street has limited selection of basics

Michael's Fabrics (silk blends)
Thai Silks

Denim
Lura's Fabric Shop has stretch denim and twill

Linings
B. Black & Sons--menswear linings and Bemberg
Dollar Fabric has best price for Bemberg
Fabrications has some Bemberg
The Sewing Place has Bemberg
Vogue Fabrics has Bemberg

Linens
Grayline Fabrics

Outerwear
B. Black & Sons has wool coatings
Haberman Fabrics charges $5 per 5 swatches
Mill Direct Textiles has Polartec and swatch kits
Rockywoods Fabrics has Polartec, Thinsulate, athletic mesh, board shorts fabric/patterns, wickaway, waterproof breathable & sun protective
Seattle Fabrics has Gore-tex, fleece, wicking fabrics, sample packs


Prepared for Dyeing
Dharma Trading Co.
Exotic Silks


Swatching Service
Banksville Designer Fabrics has a swatch club of 36 samples for $10
Britex Fabrics charges $10 for each swatch request
Fishman's Fabrics
Linton Tweeds
Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics
Textile Fabrics offers free swatches, generous in size and wide variety of fabrics, fast turnaround
 

Just my opinion....

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