2010 New Year's Resolutions: Sewing Know-How

I just finished reviewing Singer's Complete Photo Guide to Sewing. Looking through this book again reminded me what a great resource it is...and how much I don't know. One of my resolutions for 2010 is to increase my sewing knowledge and comfort with various techniques. I'm making a list of all the apparel sewing techniques included in the Singer book. My goal is to try each of them at least once before December 31, 2010. I may have to try a few projects that I wouldn't normally have attempted in order to accomplish this but I think this will be fun. I'm keeping The List in the right-hand column with each technique numbered. Whenever I complete one of these techniques, I'll do my best to take sequential photos and post them.

I am skipping all the home decorating and serger techniques. I only own a conventional machine with just the basic stitches. I also don't need to do any decorating at the moment; that's the beauty of wedding gifts!

Is the list everything I don't know? Of course not. Actually, there are quite a few things on the list I've done many times before...just not done well. The point is to take the time to learn better technique so I will be proud of my garments...and not shudder when I see a picture of me wearing a beautiful teal shantung dress with "ski-slope boobs." Don't ask. It was bad.

The List

1. Layout for even and uneven plaids
2. Make self-fabric bias strips
3. Encased seam: self-bound
4. Encased seam: French
5. Encased seam: mock French
6. Encased seam: flat-fell
7. Encased seam: mock flat-fell
8. Stretch/taped seams
9. Bound seam: bias
10. Bound seam: tricot
11. Bound seam: Hong Kong
12. Darts
13. Basic gathers
14. Gathering with elastic
15. Sewing elastic in a casing (waistline seam)
16. Set-in sleeves
17. Sewing sleeves: flat-method
18. Continuous bound placket
19. Shirt-style placket
20. Attaching a cuff
21. Pointed collar with nonfusible interfacing
22. Round collar with fusible interfacing
23. Convertible collar
24. Shirt collar with a stand
25. Waistbands
26. Hems: topstitched
27. Hems: twin-needle stitched
28. Hems: bound
29. Hems: machine blindstitched
30. Curved hems
31. Narrow hems
32. Bias neckline facing
33. Patch pocket with square corners
34. Patch pocket with rounded corners
35. Self-lined patch pocket
36. Lined patch pocket
37. In-seam pocket
38. Slanted pocket
39. Welt pocket
40. Thread eyes
41. Buttonholes
42. Snaps
43. Lapped zipper
44. Centered zipper
45. Fly-front zipper
46. Covered separating zipper
47. Exposed separating zipper
48. Invisible zipper
49. Interfacing jacket front & facing
50. Shaping jacket lapels
51. Interfacing jacket back
52. Interfacing jacket hem
53. Shaping jacket undercollar
54. Interfacing jacket sleeves
55. Notched collar
56. Topstitching a tailored collar
57. Custom shoulder pads
58. Sleeve heads
59. Tailored jacket hem
60. Jacket vent
61. Lining a jacket
62. Lining bottoms with darts
63. Lining bottoms with pleats
64. Elasticized waistbands
65. Cut-on waistband with casing
66. Cut-on waistband topstitched
67. Smooth elastic waistband
68. Shirred elastic waistband
69. Ribbed neckline: flat
70. Ribbed neckline: in-the-round
71. Ribbed neckline: V-neck
72. Adjusting pattern for swimsuit
73. Activewear elasticized edges

Singer Complete Photo Guide to Sewing

Overview:
I love this book for the pictures. I wouldn't say it would replace my other sewing reference books...a girl can never have enough sewing books. If you didn't have any books and can't afford to fully stock your sewing library, I would recommend buying this one first. The step by step instructions are complements to the photographs, instead of the other way around. In other words, you could accomplish a task just by looking at the photographs. The text has good information too so don't skip the reading.

Book Index/Chapter Headings:
GETTING STARTED
1. The Sewing Machine

• Explanation of sewing machine parts and specialty feet
• Corrections for too tight or too loose stitch tension for straight & zigzag stitching
  

2. The Serger

• Explanation of the parts and functioning of a serger
• Pictures of basic stitches on 2/3-, 4/2-, 4/3/2/-, 4/3-, and 5/4/3/2- thread sergers
• Corrections for too loose or too tight tension
• Basics such as changing thread, starting & ending seams, stitching inside corners & slits, stitching curved edges, stitching outside corners, and removing stitches
  

3. Essential Equipment & Supplies

• Uses for various machine and hand stitching needles
• Description of all the marking tools, measuring tools, cutting tools, pressing tools
• Special equipment: needle gripper, basting tape, bodkin, pattern weights, fusible web, etc.
• Threads: fine vs. serger vs. polyester vs. silk vs. mercerized cotton; when to use
• Trims & tapes, closures and zippers: nice side by side comparison for each category
  

4. The Pattern

• How to take standard body measurements, read the pattern envelope and instructions
• Nice chart with all the pattern symbols and descriptions
  

5. Fabric Essentials

• Display of "easy-to-sew" fabrics--great guide for beginner regarding fabric selection
• Pointers regarding napped & pile fabrics, sheers, twill weaves, plaids & stripes, knits and one-way design fabrics
• Table with fabric categories comparing special seam finishes, machine needles & threads needed plus numerous examples of each fabric category
  

6. Classic Fabric Textures & Designs

• Selecting patterns for, preparing fabric, layout, cutting & marking, special seam & hem techniques for: loose weaves, corduroy & velveteen, knits, sheer & silky fabrics, lustrous fabrics (satin, taffeta, etc.), lace & embroidered fabrics, and synthetic fur, suede & leathers
• If you don't have a fabric guide book, the above 2-3 page summaries for each fabric category should give you enough guidance for any fabric you use.
• Nice summary of choosing interfacings for various purposes and fabrics; tutorial on applying fusibles
  

7. Layout, Cutting, & Marking

• Discusses lengthwise & crosswise grains, bias, courses & ribs
• Straightening the grain (3 methods) and preshrinking fabric
• How to layout plaids and uneven plaids, directional fabrics
• How to cut and join bias strips
• Marking tips using marking tools or other techniques (snips, pressing, basting, etc.)--lots of great pictures here for each tool and technique
  

SEWING TECHNIQUES
8. General Guidelines for Pattern Adjustments

• Minor vs. Major adjustments; shortening for petites, bust adjustments (full, small, high, and low), waist adjustments (small, large, prominent abdomen, flat abdomen, and swayback), hip adjustments (full, small, and uneven hips)
  
• Photos of improper fit and how to make the adjustments to the paper pattern
  

9. Seams

• Tips for plain and curved seams, encased seams (self-bound, french, mock french, flat-fell, and mock flat-fell), stretch/taped seams, seam finishes (turned & stitched and zigzag), bound seam finishes (bias, tricot, and Hong Kong)--all have step by step photos
  

10. Serger Seams & Seam Finishes

• Overlock, reinforced, French, rolled, mock flat-fell, reversible lapped, gathered, mock flatlock, flatlock on a fold, stabilized seams (fusible, elastic, nonstretch, and slight-stretch)
  

11. Darts

• Shaped and wide darts, how to press a dart, and how to finish a dart
  

12. Gathers

• Great step by step instructions for basic gathers, gathering with elastic, and sewing elastic in a casing (waistline seam)
  

13. Sleeves

• Description of sleeves (set-in, kimono, and raglan); instructions for sewing sleeves--flat-method and set-in
  

14. Cuffs

• Sewing continuous bound placket and shirty-style plackets, attaching a cuff
  

15. Collars

• Sewing pointed collar with nonfusible interfacing, round collar with fusible interfacing, lining a facing with interfacing, attaching a convertible collar, and attaching a shirt collar with a stand
  

16. Waistbands

• Selvage method with fusible waistband interfacing
  

17. Hems

• Topstitched, twin-needle stitched, zigzag, turned & stitched, bound, pinked and fused; how to turn up a hem, how to sew a curved hem, machine blindstitched, and serger hems (overlock a blnid hem, cover stitch hem, flatlock a sport hem)
  

18. Easy Edges

• Bias neckline facing and sewing a narrow hem
  

19. Pockets

• Patch pocket with square or rounded corners, self-lined and lined patch pockets, sewing a patch pocket by machine or hand, in-seam pockets, slanted pockets, welt pockets
  

20. Closures

• Waistband hooks & eyes, thread eyes, measuring & marking buttonholes, machine-made buttonholes, opening a buttonhole, marking button location, sewing a shank button, hand and machine sewing a sew-through button, snaps, zippers (shortening, lapped, centered, fly-front, covered separating, exposed separating, and invisible zippers)
  

21. Tailoring

• Sequence for tailoring a jacket: interfacing a jacket front and facing, shaping lapels, interfacing jacket back with fusible interfacing, interfacing jacket hem, interface & shape jacket undercollar, interface sleeves, sewing a notched collar, topstitching a tailored collar, making a custom shoulder pad and sleeve head, stitches for a tailored hem and jacket vent, lining a jacket with/without a hem vent
• Lining a skirt or pants, including those with darts, ease or pleats
• My FAVORITE section of the book!
  

22. Sewing Activewear

• Sewing elasticized waistbands, cut-on waistband with a casing or topstitching, smooth or shirred separate waistband
• Ribbed edges: necklines (flat or in-the-round method), lapped ribbing to a V-neckline
• Swimsuits and leotards: adjusting the pattern, sewing one- and two-piece swimsuits/leotards, adjusting fit, elasticized edges
  

HOME DECORATING
23. Decorator Fabrics

• How to cut decorator fabrics, matching patterned fabrics, seams (plain, 4- or 5-thread safety stitch, narrow zigzag, and French)

24. Pillows

• Knife-edge, mock box, flange, box (including round and box with inside corners), bolster (tailored and candy wrapper)
• Closure options: zippers, hook & loop tape lapped closure, snap tape lapped closure,
  
• Decorative edges: fabric-covered welting, twisted cord welting, ruffles, fringe,
  

25. Slipcovers

• Reversible seat cover
• Cushions: waterfall, boxed, knife-edge, boxed T-cushion
• Futon cover
• Parsons chair: pin fitting the pattern and sewing the slipcover
  

26. Window Treatments

• Terms to know, tips for measuring, selecting & installing hardware, covering & installing mounting boards, hems (double-fold, 3 types of hem finishes)
• Tapered scarf swags, gathered pickup valance, flat and tucked Roman shades, flat panel curtains (determining fullness and spacing), tab curtains, rod-pocket curtains, pinch-pleated draperies
  

27. Bed & Bath

• Flanged pillow shams, duvet cover, gathered and pleated bed skirts, shower curtain
  

28. Table Fashions

• Tablecloths (including welted and mitered hem), reversible placemats, napkins (including 6 hem options)

Index


Paperback book--352 pages, published in 2009, ISBN-1589234340
You can purchase this at Amazon for less than $20 USD. I actually bought mine at a Hobby Lobby store for $25 USD. I imagine Hancock's and JoAnn's Fabrics carry this book too.

Does this book have clear illustrations or photographs?
YES! The photographs are THE reason to buy this book. This book boasts 1200 full-color how-to photos.

Would you recommend this book as a MUST HAVE?
Absolutely. It is basically an encyclopedia of sewing with tons of pictures. It does include a basic overview of home decorating as well; enough to get the average person by but not enough for those that only sew for the home.

Bridal Couture by Susan Khalje

Overview:
I used this book to guide me in the construction of my wedding gown. If I had strictly followed the Vogue instructions for pattern #2979, I would've ended up buying a gown in the store. My finished garment just wouldn't have the look I was wanting. I'm so glad I found this book and I highly recommend it for anyone, not just for bridal or formal wear but for learning couture sewing techniques.

Book Index/Chapter headings:
1. Inspiration
A portfolio of gowns by Susan Khalje

• pictures of 16 gowns of varying styles. These are older styles not often worn today but you can appreciate the construction. I also found inspiration from these pictures. The detail on a hem or sleeve, the fullness of a skirt, etc.
  

2. Fabrication
Fabrics

• Guidelines for choosing your fashion fabric and underlining (which fabric works best for what). My biggest complaint about sewing books are the generalities. Susan gives specifics...silk organza as an underlining will add crisp, lightweight support compared to a cotton batiste which will add soft support and poly-cotton batiste will be too thick and heavy for most skirts...you get the idea.
  
• Specific summaries of the most common fashion fabrics for bridal wear and what the pros/cons are for each: satin, shantung, duppioni, brocade & damask, crepe, organza, taffeta, moire, tulle, chiffon, linen, and embellished fabrics; with specific handling instructions (cutting, stitching, pressing & hemming) for satin, tulle, and embellished fabrics.
  

Laces

• Overview of lace terminology
• Descriptions & pictures of each type with pros/cons: Alencon, allover, Chantilly, Guipure, ribbon, Schiffli, Soutache, Valenciennes, and Venise.
• Layout considerations: using lace motifs to enhance garment design, borders & hems
• Working with lace: dyeing, pressing, cutting & trimming, stabilizing embellishments, marking, preparing underlying fabrics, machine & hand stitching, shaping lace borders around curves, making invisible darts or seams, finishing lace seam allowances, and applying closures to lace
  
• Placing lace: on a sheer yoke, sleeves, borders on a bodice or hem, overhanging lace, and lace medallions
• Lace treatments: shaping with a single piece of lace, covering a bodice with 3 pieces, and using lace appliques
  

3. Construction
The Muslin

• Preparing the muslin fabric, marking, adding bones and waistline stay, different placements of boning support
• Checklist for evaluating fit
• Adjusting the muslin
  

The Bodice

• Underlining: purpose and fabric selection
• Applying the boning channels
• Hand baste the underlining
• Baste garment sections
• Stitch garment sections
• Finishing top edges
• Attaching the waistline stay
• Constructing & inserting the bodice lining
• Common bodice styles and how to stabilize necklines
  

The Sleeves

• Purpose and construction of sleeve heads
• Types of Set-in sleeves: tulip, bell, trumpet, cap, leg of mutton, puff
• Off shoulder sleeves descriptions & construction: elastic-based, fabric-based, band sleeves
• Handling seams and seam allowances
• Closures (& construction tips): zippers, buttons & loops
  

The Skirt

• Layout and cutting the skirt, adding length
  
• Attaching the underlining
• Sewing and finishing skirt seams
• Gathering
• Stitching pleats
• Hemming: straight & full skirts, stitching options
• Attaching skirt lining: free-floating, French tacks, hemmed with outer skirt, lining overhanging skirt hem
  
• Skirt styles: peplums & overlays, tiered, graduated hemlines, built-in bustles, circular ruffle, bias strips on the hem, tulle skirts, gathered-up overlay, and skirts with variable fullness
  

Joining the Gown's Components

• Inserting elastic, adding gussets, hanging loops, bra carriers, and sleeve stays, adding zippers
  
• Attaching a bodice with Basque waist to a skirt
  

Ornamentation and Bustling

• Bustled trains: finding pickup points, attaching buttons/loops or ribbons
• Detachable trains
  

4. Application
The Making of Four Gowns

• 4 gowns from the first section are constructed step by step demonstrating many of the techniques above
  

5. Appendices
Equipment and Supplies

• Description of all the supplies needed and how to select them
  

Glossary

• Detailed instructions for various hand stitches and techniques
  

A Guide to Pronunciation

• How to pronounce the various lace and fabric names so you don't sound like an idiot
  

Resources

• Fabric and ribbon resources, skimpy but a few viable options
  

Suggested Reading

• For fashion inspiration and additional couture technical advice
  

6. Index


Paperback book--160 pages, published in 1997, ISBN--0801987571
Currently out of print. I ordered my copy on Amazon from a UK seller. Last time I checked however, the lowest price was $96.00 USD. I got mine for less than $30 USD.

Does this book have clear illustrations or photographs?
Absolutely! At least 1 picture on every page.

Would you recommend this book as a MUST HAVE?
A must have for bridal or formal wear, and learning couture construction techniques.

Confessions of a Fabraholic

Today I received my Denver Fabrics order for the SWAP 2010 challenge. Oh, happy day! I didn't buy difficult-to-find fabrics...unless you live in western TN. In that case, these fabrics are very difficult to find. White cotton stretch broadcloth--nope. Bottomweight denim--nope. Silks, any silks--nope. Stretch wool blend suitings--nope. Linings that aren't 100% polyester--ha, ha, HA! In my dreams.

These fabrics were so luxurious, I contemplated wrapping them all around me...and wearing them just like that. You know you've had the same thought when you buy some fantastic fabric. Don't deny it.

My SWAP 2010 theme is a fall-based Chanel wardrobe. Pink silks, pink and white knits for tops. A black and pink boucle for the jacket. Denim, black satin-back twill and grey wool stretch trousers. Black satin-back twill skirt.

I'm not sure why I chose satin-back twill. I've never used it before but it just sounded nice. I might use the wrong (dull) side for the slacks and the shiny (right) side for the skirt.

No sewing for 2 weeks now. I'm overloaded beyond words at work so I've been bringing work home. YUCK! The parents are finally coming to visit in TN so I've also been doing my spring cleaning...in the fall.

On a side note, has anyone else shopped from Denver Fabrics? I have only once before and was relatively pleased. The fabrics were great but...

1. packaged in a box without being wrapped in a bag or something to protect the fabric
2. took 2+ weeks just to process my order
3. no labels on any of the fabric (this is really just me nit-picking a bit)

This batch of fabric (approx 25 yds) came in one of those plastic mailers that clothing companies are fond of using when you only order 1 or 2 items. Seriously, a plastic mailer for 25 yards of fabric?!! The mailer was torn in several places and I was praying my fabric was intact. Thankfully it was but a box would have been much better. I guess the lesson learned is only place large orders. It may take awhile to process but at least it will come in a box.

Still not sewing....

In my defense, I've been a little distracted this week. I also just received my wedding photos so I've been going through them, all 1500+! I found some better photos to toot my own horn with regards to making my own wedding gown. It's not perfect but I'm satisfied with the results.

Found my sewing mojo!

Thanks to Faye and the "Month of Tops" sew-a-long, I have even more incentive to get back to sewing. I have been pre-washing fabrics and buying notions for several "tops" projects for the past month. Time to get to work!



I have the following projects prepped already:



1. Dark navy denim stretch 3/4-sleeve jacket
McCalls 5816
I bought this fabric for bottoms but realized during the prewashing that the fabric is too lightweight for bottoms. I have never worked with denim so I figured the bolt labels would indicate what was best for tops vs bottoms. The bolt labels are very deceiving. To buy the proper weight denim fabric, you must know a little about how denim is categorized by weight (6 oz vs 12 oz??). I will create a separate post about some basic denim buying and sewing tips later. Anyway, I had 6+ yards of this and decided to make 2 jackets and a skirt.



2. Dark navy denim stretch short-sleeve jacket
Butterick 5332 view C


3. Double-knit cardigans in 4 colors (grey, navy, red, purple)
McCalls 5978
I did extensive reading about working with knits in general since I have never worked with knits and I have recently bought TONS of it in various types and colors. I'll post a summary of tips for working with double knits later this week. I'll save the rest of my knits FYI when I get around to those materials.



4. Striped button-front long-sleeve shirts in 2 different patterns

Remember the infamous shirting fabric that lost its smooth finish when I prewashed? This is the fabric I've been fussing with for some time. Everytime it beats me, I walk away from it for a week or so until I'm ready to try again. I've resigned myself to plain 'ol spray starching the material before ironing for use. I was really hoping to avoid that. I LOATHE starching and ironing.



That's all I've prepped so far. If I manage to finish those quickly, I'll probably get to work on the other knits. I have some pretty rayon blends and cotton jerseys that could be very easy to knock out. Can you tell I'm trying to avoid ironing?



Follow my progress here and on the Month of Tops blog.



Next up? I'm toying with the idea of doing the SWAP 2010 challenge. I went through my stash and found that I didn't have everything I needed to pull off a Chanel-themed wardrobe. Darn...guess I'll have to buy more fabric. (wink, wink) Anyway, here's my "storyboard."

Where's my sewing mojo?

I have a fabric forest growing in my spare bedroom/sewing room. I should be sewing every spare minute that I have so I can enjoy all my wonderful fabric finds and finally have clothes that fit and wear well. So why don't I want to sew?!!!

Hubby keeps saying to me, "You look bored or like you are looking for something to do. Why don't you sew something?" I think he really wants my piles of unfinished projects to just get cleared off of tables but I still appreciate the encouragement.

I was reading Marji's latest post today and it hit me. I'm fat and don't like my body as it is now. I don't want to waste my fabric on clothes that hopefully will be too big in the coming months. I wanted to reward myself for exercising and eating healthier by making new clothes. I can't seem to find the motivation to eat well or exercise. Everytime I put on the frumpy clothes that I have now, I hate my body even more.

Bottom line:

"Sew for the body you have."

So simple but I forgot that along the way. I know I will feel better about the way I look if the clothes I wear are more flattering to my body as it is. A little good feeling will go a long way...maybe I'll even exercise?

When the clothes are too big, I will have to practice altering finished garments. I usually just donate them because I never enjoyed unpicking a finished garment, homemade or store-bought. This will be good practice for me. If I can't make it smaller, then I can also practice repurposing. Maybe a shirt will become a purse, blanket square...or something else for the cats to nap on.

I have some doubleknits at home that are desperately needing to be made into cardigans. The weather is finally cooling off and I need some new layers to wear. Sew for the body you have. I can always buy more fabric! (wink, wink)